A Taste of France for the South Side Irish at Koda

By Chuck Sudo in Food on Jun 1, 2006 5:30PM

Only in its third week of business, Koda, the casual French bistro in the far South Side Beverly neighborhood, is doing amazing business. When Chicagoist decided to sample some of Koda's fare last week we were faced with a ninety-minute wait for a table, before opting to just sit at the bar.

The packed restaurant only proves correct co-owner Janice Daley's assertion to Metromix that Beverly was "totally underserved", an assertion reiterated when the Bridgeport Bureau introduced himself to Janice's husband, Pat, after ordering digestifs. Eyeing the tall glass of Rochefort eight-year-old trappist ale we were nursing, Mr. Daley offered us a snifter of Gran Marnier XO, a smoother, more-rounded version of the orange-infused cognac. It led to a lengthy discussion touching upon cognacs and wines, the Daleys' prior career running a beauty salon, further proclamations of how Beverly needs a place like Koda, and this writer wondering what's stocked in the Daley's home bar.

Digressing, follow the jump for a full review of this new South Side gem.

The interior of Koda focuses on large dining rooms: one with windows facing Western Avenue; one further back; the hallway separating the two dining rooms is flanked on the right side by the bar and a tiny row of booths on the left. The bar itself is decorated in dark tones, high tables and chairs, and an LED back bar setting whose lights change colors at fifteen minute intervals. It's cozy without resorting to ironic slumming; casual without bordering on pretension.

Koda's menu was developed by Aaron Browning, whose resume includes tours of duty at Everest, Brasserie Jo, and suburban Le Vichyssoise. Browning's menu features current-day twists on classic French cuisine, like the steak frites with your choice of blue cheese, bercy, or au poivre sauces. We heard diners moaning over bites of the wild mushroom risotto. The brie, pear, and walnut tart flambee (pictured to your left) is sliced like a Chicago-style thin crust pizza, and can easily serve four.

Whenever Chicagoist sees escargot on a menu, we have to order them. Koda's escargots a la bourguignon is an herb-laden, buttery treat complemented perfectly by warm French bread. Another must-order from the menu is the goat cheese and ratatouille tart, served with a side of mesclun greens and decorated with a zesty raspberry sauce. Koda's wine menu is eclectic and not limited to French wines. A glass of Bonny Doon syrah complemented the tart flambee perfectly. Glass prices range from $7-$9.50. Or buy a bottle of the "dijon blocks" pinot noir from Chicagoist favorite Van Duzer, and pair it with the steak frites and bercy sauce. The best part about dining at Koda is that few entrees are priced above $20; the average price for appetizers is $8. So it won't break your budget.

With all the press and positive reviews Koda is certain to become a destination spot, not only for residents of Beverly and Morgan Park, but for folks who otherwise would limit their trips out south to the South Side Irish parade. As always, Chicagoist thinks you should check it out for yourself. Koda is located at 10352 S. Western Avenue. They're open from 5 p.m. until 10 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday; the bar stays open until midnight. Their phone number is (773) 445-KODA (5632). Reservations are strongly recommended.