North Side Review: Smoque

2007_1_smoque3.jpg

We were inclined to dislike Smoque, the new BBQ joint that just opened up off of the Irving Park Blue Line stop on 3800 N. Pulaski. The borderline idiotic name, the intensity of their BBQ manifesto and (for us) the long distance necessary to travel to get there, made us ready to dismiss the recently opened BBQ joint. Additionally, we didn't feel like it was "authentic." While we aren't sure what authentic really means, Smoque doesn't have it — it almost feels like a pre-fab restaurant, with the menu on the chalkboard and the french fries in a paper bag acting like what someone thinks a BBQ place should be. We were ready to hate it.

2007_1_smoque1.jpgUntil we took our first bite of food.

Smoque is good. Really good. The kind of good that if it was located in the heart of the Loop instead of all the way up on N. Pulaski, there would be lines out the doors at lunch and throughout the afternoon. From their website: "The natural flavors of the meat; the savory flavor of hardwood smoke; the spiciness of the rub; the sweetness or pungency of the sauce--when these elements are in balance, you have found BBQ heaven." And BBQ heaven it was.

Chicagoist ordered the half chicken for $9.95, which came with cole slaw and two sides. From the menu of sides, which includes cole slaw, french fries, baked beans, macaroni and cheese, cornbread and peach cobbler, we picked the french fries and cornbread. Our date for the evening opted for the pulled pork with cole slaw, mac and cheese and baked beans for $8.45. In addition, a side of the brisket was added for $3. The meals come out looking like they are from an airplane specializing in BBQ. A metal tray holds the meat and each side in its accompanying disposable aluminum dish.

The chicken came out black and shiny. We were a little concerned about the color, until we look our first bite of the meat and skin. Aha! This is what BBQ is all about. Meat so tender and flavorful that the accompanying sauce was rendered superfluous. The french fries were perfectly seasoned that, again, we found any ketchup unnecessary.

2007_1_smoque2.jpgAs for the other meats? The brisket was perfect — tender, flavorful, and with just the right amount of seasoning. While the pulled pork wasn't given the same laudatory praise as the chicken and brisket, it too was given high overall marks from Chicagoist. The mac and cheese was the only thing we tried that we found disappointing; an uninteresting cheese flavor combined with a somewhat gelatinous consistency made it the big loser of the night.

As we learned last night from our date (who once worked at a BBQ joint), there are two schools of thought concerning cole slaw. The first school believes it should have a mayo-based dressing. The second eschews mayo for a vinegar and celery salt dressing. Smoque's was of the latter variety, and we appreciated the crispy and tart slaw, as opposed to the mayo-drenched style we were expecting.

Smoque is BYOB; we didn't see any liquor stores nearby, but there is a 7-11 two blocks south on Pulaski.

Smoque is open Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m. - 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. - 10 p.m., and Sunday, 11 a.m. - 9 p.m. They can be reached at 773-545-RIBS.

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Comments (17) [rss]

Glad to see Chicagoist heading North/Northwest. There are lots of places west of Western Av. that have yet to be discovered by the masses. Maybe that's a good thing. Heading even farther NW, Jolly Inn will fill your belly for $8.95. Polish Smorgasbord at it's best. Irving and Naragansett.

MJK's right. There are lots of good spots NW. And I appreciate Chicagoist's tip about Smoque. Otherwise, I too would have rolled my eyes at the name and never set foot in the door. For what its worth, Taxco at Montrose&Elston is the best place in the city to sit down for a Mexican meal.

One problem with the Jolly Club, MLK, is that the carvers do not use separate knives to carve the beef and pork dishes.

Their fish dishes are excellent, however.

One problem with the Jolly Club, MJK, is that the carvers do not use separate knives for the beef and pork dishes.

Their fish dishes are excellent, however.

I used to live 3 blocks from here. I wish this place had been around then...

There's a very good 1950's blue hair fab Italian restaurant right over there too correct?

nsh: you thinking of biasetti's? the one that closed? that was/is around irving and addison, i think.

Agreed, it's good to see the Irving Park neighborhood in a review.

On pulaski two blocks north of Addison, big place for carryout pizza and has a nice dining room

That pizza place would be La Villa, on Pulaski north of Addison. That's where we got pizza every Friday night when I was in high school.

La Villa, yes! great place. Sabatino's is very good too, and how about a shout out for Jeff's Hot Dogs.

Freedomrider:
Stay away from the carving stations! Stick with the goods under the sneeze glass.
I was at the Jolly Inn about a month ago, and the pork had melted cheddar and a bunch of other non-Polski things stewing under the lamp. I elbowed a stranger next to me to see his reaction, and even with his jello/golabki/blook sausage/pierogi/horseradish/turkey leg/potato pancake mixture couldn't bring himself to look at it for more than a couple seconds.
It's funny to let them speak to you in Polish until your eyes go crossed, then they crossover to English like a light switch.


Hey Oppenheimer, what experience does the "We" as in the, "Additionally, we didn't feel like it was "authentic."" have in judging what is and what isn't, authentic BBQ?

2,4,6,8 Chicagoist needs to integrate!

I went to Sabatino's once. I was served a plate of gooey glop. I shall not return.

Anyone have a different experience there?

we just went to Smoque last night after a second positive review in T.O. Chicago.
It was just OK. I've had better ribs in the city and certainly make better ribs myself during good weather of course.

We go to Sabatino's every Wednesday. The food is EXCELLENT. Lobster tail special on Wednesday (about $21)... always delicious. I've NEVER had a bad meal here. I've tried just about everything and enjoy it all! My favorite is the Mostaciolli Bolognese and the Dover Soul (prepared perfect every time)
No blue hair here :-) The bar is friendly and the drinks are very reasonable. The wine list is also pretty good.
MW

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