Northwest Side Review: Treat

2007_05_Treat.jpg

Treat is a treat for the eyes thanks to a colorful, funky atmosphere. The food, unfortunately, was not such a treat.

2007_05_Treat4.jpgThe Humboldt Park breakfast-lunch-dinner eatery had everything set up to be just right — happy, bright yellow walls lined with black-and-white photos picturing urban people and scenes; a quaint, little espresso bar/countertop area at the front; retro, faux-wood furniture; a nice, quiet crowd that matched the décor (think funky and eclectic), dishware in cool shapes; pretty presentation of food; reasonable prices. Even the server, despite that she was working the whole room that day, was very sweet, attentive, and comforting.

The execution of the dishes — at least during the Saturday brunch when this Chicagoist writer was there — just didn’t make the cut. Let us explain.

2007_05_Treat3.jpgThe menu describes the fare as “globally influenced American cuisine,” and fusion, essentially, it is — African and Indian spices such as tamarind and garam masala, plus Middle Eastern-style ingredients like chickpeas and lentils, find their way into various items on the menu like the "Masala French Toast" and "Pakora," or Indian-style pancakes. The buttermilk pancakes, which we ordered, get a tasty dollop of honey and Chevre goat cheese mousse, and two side containers with strawberry compote and homemade Chai-syrup. Light, fluffy, and huge, the pancakes and toppings were delicious.

We were more excited about the steak Benedict and three-cheese omelet with gouda, parmesan and Gruyere that we ordered, but were, sadly, disappointed. The steak Benedict had such great potential — fresh ingredients, interesting spices, creativity. Two poached eggs sat atop strips of skirt steak and fresh, barely wilted spinach on sesame baguette slices, an interesting twist from a traditional eggs Benedict with Canadian bacon and English muffin. The big problem was it was cooked just a few too many minutes long. The egg yolks, which should have been runny and buttery, were instead hard and dry. The steak, which should have been rare and juicy, was also overcooked and dry. The spinach was perfect, however.

2007_05_Treat2.jpgSame problems with the three-cheese omelet. The outer egg “shell,” having cooked a bit too long, was stiff and dry when it should have been soft, gentle, smooth. But, strangely, the cheese filling was barely melted when it should have been oozy and delicious. A side of prosciutto, which tasted more like Serrano ham to us, was also overcooked and dry. So sad. We wanted to like this adorable place for brunch so much, but it just wasn’t there. The pancakes and strong, hot coffee were the true real winners, and perhaps the French toast, had we ordered it.

On a happier note, from the looks of the menu, Treat seems to have a nice lunch and dinner menu. We wouldn’t mind stopping in to try the list of Panini sandwiches like the artichoke parmesan, turkey and beer battered cod. The dinner items seem equally enticing — Moroccan braised lamb shank, pan-seared salmon with herb spaaeztle, curried gnocchi with raisins, fennel and mint. Let’s just hope next time the heat’s not so turned up on that grill.

Treat is located at 1616 N. Kedzie Ave., 773-773-1201. Open Monday, Wednesday and Thursday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Saturday from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m.; and Sunday from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Closed Tuesday. BYOB.

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Comments (12) [rss]

I dig this place…the only thing its missing is a liquor license and of course liquor

Good review....I agree this place needs a little tweaking, but overall has a lot of promise!

Another thing that's missing is the address. I could click on the link, but that would be too easy.

Next to the currency exchange, catty corner to the armory and across from the gas station...duh! Just ask one of the people double parked cashing their paychecks.

On a side note they were filming some kind of movie at that armory today, not sure what it was.

The bottom picture, what exactly is are the side orders? Doesn't look like your typical hashbrowns. Looks great.

If one more restaurant opens with a one-syllable name that is both a noun and a verb, I am simply going to explode.

Not to say that this place isn't good; I'm sure it is.

Sorry MJK and everyone--can't believe I forgot to mention the crispy, spicy potato "cake" served with the omelet and Benedict. Not too greasy, good, crisp outer layer, and hints of curry, perhaps cumin, and other Indian-style spices. I oredered sesame toast, which is what's also pictured next to the omelet.

Clearly, this review is not only odd and off, it is not professional. A professional review always has atleast two visits. The person seemed to forget the most important thing about breakfast - the potatoes... how sloppy! I live close to Treat and I love it here. Neighborhood restaurants are criticised here (by people from other neighborhoods) with the same benchmark as say Carnivale etc. It is not fair. This place is a gem and is creative. Ah! I guess there wasn't enough beer for the reviewer to like this place. We'll chalk it to personal taste!

I don't see what is "odd" or "off" or unprofessional about this review. The writer wrote an honest review based on their experience. And neighborhood restaurants SHOULD be judged on the same benchmark as other, larger, restaurants. Being a neighborhood place doesn't mean you can get away with mediocrity. Furthermore, what is wrong with people from other neighborhood critiquing the restaurant? I didn't know the place was made *just* for people in the immediate vicinity of Humboldt Park.

And as for this little gem:

"I guess there wasn't enough beer for the reviewer..."

Doesn't seem to have anything to do with anything. Clearly, you don't know what you're talking about. Thanks for playing, though.

I live in Humboldt Park and I go to Treat all the time as well. I agree that this review is off the mark. Treat serves very delicious food for a great value and the review doesn't justify the actual restaurant at all. It is the consensus of many people in the vicinity and judging by what all of us are saying this review just cannot be used as an accurate benchmark for Treat. Just try it for yourself and be the judge rather than my opinion or the reviewer's.

I second (or third or fourth...) the disagreement with this review. Treat serves fresh food, cooked with a lot of care, presented well, and at a great value. It is a solid place with solid food on the entire menu. It is a great addition to the neighborhood and it has bold, daring flavors that some people may not enjoy as much. However, it is worth at least one shot and most are hooked. Dinners are amazing and brunches are just as good.

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