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Jerry Kleiner’s Retro Chic – Room 21

By Anthony Todd in Food on Mar 21, 2008 5:45PM

Room%2021.jpgLast weekend we stopped in for dinner at Room 21, the new(ish) posh comfort food venue in the far South Loop/Motor Row area. The latest addition to Jerry Kleiner’s restaurant empire (which includes Opera, Marche, Gioco, Red Light and Carnivale), Room 21 opened in the spring of 2007 and has garnered mixed reviews. Despite a challenging location, the restaurant has been busy every time we’ve walked by, so we decided to take a look.

Room 21 has the best backstory of any restaurant in Chicago. The building was a liquor warehouse and speakeasy in the 1920s that was the site of an Eliot Ness raid that netted 200,000 gallons of illegal booze. During renovation (so the story goes) Kleiner discovered a hidden escape tunnel – the door into the tunnel was labeled “Room 21.” Despite this rich history, the finished interior unfortunately looks like every other Kleiner restaurant: lots of red velvet and eclectic colors. We were hoping for a bit more 30s flair.

We enjoyed the blend of upscale and home-style food. The menu is simple and solid, a great place to take a picky eater or just someone who likes food without a lot of fuss. Shrimp cocktail, BBQ Short Rib Sliders, Baked Onion Soup – all excellent. Of the main courses, we can recommend the Filet Oscar, two beef medallions topped with Crab and a Béarnaise sauce. Save room for dessert, which is where Room 21 really impressed us. Warm, homemade cardamom donuts with a variety of dipping sauces were swoon-worthy, and a simple brownie sundae was perfect after such a comforting meal.

The only complaint we had about Room 21 was that it didn’t seem to have anything truly unique. All of the menu items were fairly standard, though well-executed. Neither the décor nor the food was worth a special trip to its out-of-the-way spot. However, as a place for South Loop locals, Room 21 is lovely. During the summer, they have a great garden, so if you’re looking for a romantic date-spot with reliable food, this might be the place.

Room 21 is located at 2110 S. Wabash. Reservations are recommended, but probably not necessary unless you’re going on a Saturday night. Dress is casual. Valet parking is available for $8.