First, a disclaimer: we've been thoroughly underwhelmed by Sam's new South Loop store, which just seems like it was thrown together ad hoc in order to start generating revenue for South Loop residents starved for retail and has all the charm of a run-down Armanetti's.

But we did manage to pick up a couple of brewed gems on our recent visit. This week's selection comes from Bear Republic Brewery, which was featured here last autumn with their Racer 5 IPA. Bear Republic uses hot rod and classic car themes in their beer names, and the corny sounding "Hop Rod Rye" continues that tradition. Brewed with 30 percent rye malt, it has the color of red Irish hair, with a thick, long-lasting head, citrus and spice on the nose. The inclusion of rye malt guarantees that this beer will have some sweetness to it. It's also smooth, with one of the best mouthfeels on a rye beer we've tasted.

Sam's retails Hop Rod 22-ounce bombers for $5.49. It's a good session beer, as an introduction for beer drinkers who want to become acclimated to ales, or for folks looking for an alternative to traditional red ales in springtime. It's also Chicagoist's "Beer of the Week."