Sweetbreads are one of the best misnomers in cuisine. Neither sweet nor a bread product, a sweetbread is either the pancreas (stomach sweetbread or noix in French) or thymus gland (throat sweetbread or gorge in French) of an animal, typically lamb or a calf. If that alone turned you off of sweetbreads, the lengthy preparation to remove any blood from the tissue, off-tasting fat and gristle won't exactly have your mouth watering. But their delicate flavor is a worthwhile culinary adventure to experience and Chicago restaurants offer many opportunities to do just that.
Chicagoist writers and readers gathered at Cyrano's Bistrot to try their "crispy veal sweetbreads, roasted legumes in chive cream sauce." The flavor is relatively mild and subtle but was accented nicely with the sauce. The texture was, oddly (or appropriately) enough, that of a relatively firm bread pudding. Not everyone at the dinner was an adventurous eater by nature but everyone tried the dish and reactions varied from a shrug of 'not bad' to 'great!' Paired with a great wine, they made a great appetizer. Cyrano's also serves an entree portion of sweetbreads for those willing to commit to adventure in a big way.
You'll find sweetbreads at a variety of restaurants in Chicago (especially French). Don't be afraid to give them a try. If you're interested in joining us in a Qu'est-ce que c'est outing, leave a comment and let us know!
Cyrano's Bistrot is located at 546 N. Wells.
Photo by Charles Haynes.
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Whenever I think of "sweetbreads" I think of Hannibal and how the foxy Ed Norton discovered Dr. Lector's secret.
Do. Not. Want.
Sweetbreads also change in flavor and texture depending on how they're prepared. Some of the best I've eaten are the grilled ones at Tango Sur, as part of their hibachi for two. Grilled sweetbreads and blood sausage. It's the way to go.
What Cyrano's foisted upon us that evening were certainly acceptable (without the chive sauce, even).
Spav - Holy crap, you're so right. OY.
Chuck - Oh man, I don't think I'm game on the blood sausage but I'll give it a whirl.
mmm...blood sausage & sweetbreads at Tango Sur. That makes me want to go feast there tonight.
I could just as easily settle for boudin blanc at Custom House.
I got to try the Sweetbreads at Custom House. They were delicious. Who knew glands/pancreas could be so good? (haha)
I love blood sausage, but i haven't had any good stuff in Chicago! I'll have to head to Tango Sur for myself.