Frank Bruni, Meet L2O

New York Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni reviews L2O in today's edition of the Paper of Record. The true meat of the review lies not in Bruni's take on the food — he says Laurent Gras has "deftly filtered many worthy influences" — but in forecasting its long-term health. L2O has not been packing them in of late, and Bruni notes that gras' partner Rich melman of Lettuce Entertain You holds "plenty of moderately priced, unglamorous restaurants to support such divas as Tru and Everest." And L2O.

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I read the article and took it more about the food, and I think the timing of the piece is important being that the Beard Awards were awarded last night and L2O did not win anything, yet Bruni comes out with a piece commending it's food and buzz (with criticism on service, which I think is Bruni's way of telling why it lost).

sorry I meant "were awarded two nights ago". Lost track of time.

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