After years of dining out, few things can throw me for a loop. Strange or inattentive service, exotic foodstuffs, unbearable dining rooms - all these just make for good stories later, once you’ve survived the experience. But I still remember the first time a waiter asked me if I wanted bottled water with my meal. It was slipped in so nonchalantly - as if anyone who dined at this august establishment wouldn’t dream of touching the simple common stock of hydrogen and oxygen molecules. People like us, the place seemed to silently scream, deserve something better. No other option was given to me, which conjured up the threat of dying a thirsty death if I didn’t agree to order the water.
I’ll admit it - I caved. I was on a date, I didn’t want to seem either unsophisticated or cheap, and so I ordered the water. I think it was Acqua Panna, a perfectly tasty and respectable brand of bottled water. When I got the bill, I almost gagged - the restaurant had charged me $8 for a single one-liter bottle.
Since then, this has become one of my biggest dining pet peeves. Let’s be clear - I have no problem with restaurants offering a stock of bottled water on their menus. My objection is to the quickly asked question, “Would you like bottled water this evening?” dropped by a waiter while patrons are still shrugging off their coats and checking out the décor. Lately, some restaurants have expanded the offering and now ask “Would you like bottled water or tap?” Depending on the waiter, this can either be a genuine question or an exercise in snobbery - the word “tap” dropped into the sentence like it is covered in slime. I refuse to take the bait - it’s tap water for me, every time. For $8, I can have a cocktail or a glass of wine, and the idea of spending that much on a bottle of water offends me. But not everyone dines out as much as I do, and I often worry that unsuspecting diners, eager to fit in, will end up spending thousands on water, downing bottle after gold-plated bottle.
One option that has popped up recently is Natura, the in-house water bottling system. I first encountered Natura at A Mano about 2 years ago. By that point, I had become so suspicious of anything that came in a bottle that when I saw a waiter approaching the table with two bottles in hand I tensed, ready for the inevitable. “No, no,” he gently informed me, “This water is free. Would you like still or sparkling?” Natura allows restaurants to filter their water and bottle it in reusable bottles, which can be distributed to tables. Most places charge nothing; a few charge $1 a bottle for carbonated water. The bottle can be reused many times before it has to be recycled, which gives the process an environmental advantage as well.
Until more restaurants move to this system, I will stand firm. No bottles for me, thanks, and I wish they’d turn off the pressure. Dining out, especially for those who aren’t used to it, can be stressful and expensive enough without worrying about the water.



I couldn't agree with you more. Charging $8 for bottled water is a gold old fashioned con. And to paraphrase Robin Williams, if you're nonchalant about actually paying that much for bottled water, that's God's way of telling you you have too much money.
"I didn’t want to seem either unsophisticated or cheap .."
As I am sure you learned, anyone who is impressed with overpriced bottled water--that is, outside the Third World--probably isn't worth dating.
Incidentally, bottled water is a far greater threat to the Great Lakes and its tributaries than pollution or any other diversion. Companies like Perrier or Pepsico annually take billions of gallons from springs within the basin (especially in Michigan) for next to nothing, lowering the water table and affecting surface stream and groundwater flow. The bottles are, in fact, a created market designed to let these companies get around limits on diversions from the basin put down in law. The law places very few limits on the removal of water from the basin if the water is in containers below a certain size. Thus, we have this ongoing invented demand for the "pure" water in bottles.
Seriously? I was not aware of that and will have to learn more.
A decent book that touches on the subject is Water Follies: Groundwater Pimping and the Fate of America's Fresh Waters, by Robert Gelennon (2002). Like a lot of water books, its focus is mainly in the West, but it has a couple of informative chapters on the Great Lakes. And there are many, many other sources.
There's this book by Ted McCellan (sp?) I've been meaning to read about the Great Lakes, too. He was/is a writer for the Reader and Salon, et al.
The Third Coast, it's called ... which I had not heard about. It looks interesting. Thanks for pointing it out.
In the case of Pepsi and Coca-Cola, they aren't even taking it from basins. The water for Aquafina and Dasani comes from public sources, most likely water treatment plants.
Good old syrup-less Pepsi
Just to clarify, a company taking water from a public water source is still taking water from the "basin," which hydrologically is defined as any source within the confines of a particular watershed. But yes, Coke and Pepsi very often take the water they sell in bottles from the same source communities use for tap water, which makes the whole market even more stupid. And it become ecologically harmful once the company ships this water--which can add up to a significant portion of the original flow--outside its original watershed.
A few times when the server has been particularly snobby-sounding with the bottle or tap question, I've responded by asking what brand it is and then turning my nose up with an, "Oh, no. Tap. Please." I like at least attempting to turn the snobbery back around (I mean come on, it's *water*), and often wonder if they leave the table having seen right through it or thinking, "Gosh, I wonder what he thinks is better than [brand of bottled water]?"
i will need to try that if i get asked the question.
You should have put up your hand too and said "ungh, take it away".
You should wear a monocle, so when they ask, you can drop it, aghast.
What's wrong with just ordering a Coke?
What's wrong with drinking only whiskey to quench your thirst? Oh, wait ...
When I get the 'bottled or tap' question I always tell them I want Eau de Lac Michigan. Thats probably horrible french but it puts the snobby waiters on their heels.
One of the nice things about living in "The States" is we have a safe supply of water for most. Including restaurant patrons. If someone feels the need to spend $8 for a litre of bottled water, by all means, please do. But, in the end you aren't getting anything more special than just paying $8 for a litre of water.