Openings: Chizakaya
By Chuck Sudo in Food on Sep 2, 2010 7:30PM
In a city that's trending heavily in recent years towards pubs with thoughtful beer menus and upscale food, the concept of the Japanese-style pub, or izakayas, should be a seamless mesh. While Izakaya Hapa in River North is strumming along with a pedestrian menu, unfortunately the rounds upon rounds of sushi Steven Song served to the stroller brigade at the now-closed Masu Izakaya indicated a disconnect where customers either didn't understand the concept or expected a sushi bar.
Hope is that Chizakaya (3056 N. Lincoln, 773-697-4725) sets the baseline locally for izakayas while putting other bars hopping onto the "gastropub" express that they need to raise their game. Chef/owner Harold Jurado is a Charlie Trotter's veteran whose pedigree includes stints at Japonais and Sunda, so he knows how the balance the fine lines between savory and sweet, and when to load a plate versus tease with an elegant plating. Jurado has tapped L2O vet Robert Rubba as his chef de cuisine. Former L2O sommelier Chantrelle Pabros has crafted a cocktail menu that emphasizes the Japanese concept of washoku, or "harmony of food. " Pabros's program includes a litany of sakes, beers, whiskeys, shochu and house-made syrups, bitters and juices.
The menu follows the break.
Okashi (Snacks)
Black edamame, sea salt 4
Oshinko (seasonal pickles) 5
Barley miso soup 3
Puffed pig ears, togarashi 4
Teriyaki string beans, sesame seed 5
Japanese sweet potato fries, spiced mayo 5
Crispy pork, slow poached egg 5
Raw/Pickled/Salads
Daikon, roasted seaweed, baby anchovies, ponzu 5
Seasonal greens, tofu dressing, crunchy rice 6
Hamachi, bone marrow, garlic, umeboshi 12
Octopus, tomato, cucumber, radish, fish sauce vinaigrette 5
Kombu marinated Tai (snapper), avocado, shiso, lime vinaigrette 11
Home-made basket tofu, bonito, scallion, ginger, soy 7
Beef liver "sashimi," petite watercress, sesame vin 6
Kushi Yaki 3
Chicken gizzards
Chicken skins
Chicken meatball
Chicken and negi
Shishito peppers, bonito
Hakurei turnips
Tomato, shiso
Beef sirloin tip, lime, wasabi
Sweet sausage
Pork meatball
Beef cheek
Beef tongue
Confit octopus
Noodles/Rice
Cold soba, summer vegetables, shrimp tempura 10
House ramen, braised pork, slow poached egg, fish cake 12
Blue crab congee, corn, chives 7
Steamed
Walleye, ginger, scallion 10
Daily gyoza, soy, ra-yu 6
Chawan mushi (steamed custard), radish, dashi 6 with foie gras 11
Fried
Crispy chicken thighs, dashi mayo, mizuna 8
Corn fritter, chili, lime, mayo 5
Age-Dashi Tofu 6
Grilled
Ika (squid), togarashi, lemon vin 10
Whole saba, lemon, cucumber 11
Hamachi kama, ponzu, daikon, ginger 8
Roasted
King oyster, enoki, shimiji mushrooms, soy, lemon-butter 8
Japanese eggplant, sweet miso, apple 5
Clams, beer, black garlic, spiced broth 13
Chicken livers, negi 6
Dessert
Yuzu cake, green tea ice cream 5
Taro, ube, rice pudding 5
Chocolate sesame ganache, puffed barley, soy milk sorbet 5
Ice Cream, daily selection 3
Cocktails
Lie & Cheat
Rice shochu, lychee juice, St. Germain, lime 8
Isao Aoki
Sudachi shochu, yuzu, iced matcha green tea 8
Ume Ume
Sweet potato shochu, plum juice, house-made ginger bitters, umeboshi, ginger ale 8
Shiso Mojito
Sugar cane shochu, shiso leaves, Turbinado sugar, lime 8
Chu Hai
Barley shochu, soda water, lemon 8
Sake by the Glass
Chilled
Tsukosabotan, Junmai, Kochi 6
Light and Clean
Crisp aroma of Rambotan, star fruit, with a bright refreshing finish, hinting of plum
Azumaichi, Junmai Ginjo, Saga 8
Fruity and Fun
Notes of green apple, hints of strawberry, and passion fruit.
Exclusive to Chizakaya by the glass
Daishichi, Kimoto Tokubetsu Junmai, Fukushima 9
Luscious and Rich
Dense and profound character, complex aromatics, herbal, earthy
Dassai Goju Nigori, Junmai Daiginjo, Yamaguchi 7
Milky and Refined
Sweet scented, medium bodied, with notes of coconut and green plantains; dry finish
Warmed
Shirakabegura, Junmai, Kyoto,1800ml
Feminine, soft supple texture
3oz 6, 6oz 12
Kikumasamune, Junmai, Hyogo,1800ml
Masculine, sauvage, dried meat, earthy, incredible depth of flavor
3oz 5, 6oz 10
Small Format: Single Portion
Kikusui Funaguchi, Honjozo Genshu, Niigata, 200ml, 10
Bold and Sweet
Bold warming sweetness, reminiscent of amaretto, with hints of almonds and peaches. Cask strength 18-19% alcohol, great neat, fun on the rocks!
Mizbasho, Junmai Ginjo, Gunma, 180ml, 14
Soft and Gentle
Soft edges with a gentle sweetness, a kiss of melting snow and ripe apricot.
Sake by the Bottle
Kikusui Funaguchi, Honjozo Genshu, Niigata, 200ml, 10
Kubota Senju, Honjozo, Niigata, 720ml, 43
Suigei, Tokubetsu Junmai, Kochi, 300ml, 20
Hakkaisan, Tokubetsu Junmai, Niigata, 300ml, 23
Nanbu Bijin, Tokubetsu Junmai, Iwate, 300ml, 24
Nishi No Seki, Tokubetsu Junmai, Oita, 720ml, 38
Tsukosabotan, Junmai, Kochi, 720ml, 48
served warmed Shirakabegura, Junmai, Kyoto,1800ml, 86
served warmed Kikumasamune, Junmai, Hyogo1800ml, 75
Mizbasho, Junmai Ginjo, Gunma, 180ml, 14
Fukucho Biho, Junmai Ginjo, Hiroshima, 300ml, 30
Azumaichi, Junmai Ginjo, Saga, 1800ml, 123
Dassai 50, Junmai Daiginjo, Yamaguchi, 300ml, 20
Hana Awase, Junmai Daiginjo, Ibaraki, 300ml, 55
Daishichi, Shizen Shu, Kimoto Tokubetsu Junmai, Fukushima, 720ml, 66
Hakutsuru, Sayuri, Nigori, Hyogo, 300ml, 16
Dassai Goju Nigori, Junmai Daiginjo, Yamaguchi, 720ml, 50
Himezen, Sweet Junmai, Miyagi, 720ml, 34
Whiskey
Yamazake, 12 Year, Japanese Blended Whisky 8
Hibiki, 12 Year, Japanese Blended Whisky 15
Elijah Craig, 10 Year, American Whiskey 12
Templeton, Small Batch, American Rye Whiskey 34
Shochu
Kakushigura / Barley 9
Jougo / Sugar Cane 9
Satsuma Hosan / Sweet Potato 11
Awa No Kaori / Sudachi 7
Hakutake “Shiro”/ Rice 10
Beer by the Bottle
Great Lakes Brewing Co., Cleveland, Ohio
Eliot Ness, Vienna Lager 5
Three Floyds Brewing Co., Munster, Indiana
Alpha King, American Pale Ale 7
Goose Island, Chicago, Illinois
Sofie, Belgian Style Farmhouse Ale 6
Matilda, Belgian Pale Ale 22 oz, 14
New Holland Brewing Co., Kolsch, Michigan
Full Circle, KoĢlsch 7
Two Brothers Brewing Co., Warrenville, Illinois
Cane & Ebel, Red Rye Ale 7
Lambic
Baird Brewing Co., Shizuoka, Japan
Carpenter Mikan, Fruit Ale 5
Beer on Tap
Sapporo Breweries Limited., Tokyo, Japan
Japanese Rice Lager, 3
Goose Island, Chicago, Illinois
Green Line, American Pale Ale, 5
Kiuchi Brewery, Ibaraki, Japan
Hitachino Nest, White Ale 5