A Whole Latke Love: T’is the Season for Potato Pancakes
By John DiGilio in Food on Dec 15, 2010 4:45PM
Boiled, mashed, baked, or fried, the ubiquitous spud is a staple of the Chicago diet. Thanks to fast food and convenience, french fries are the prom queen of potato dishes - bland and popular. For many, however, the first chills of winter bring thoughts of another way to enjoy this tuber. From the pen of Lemony Snickett to the stalls of Chicago’s own Christkindlmarket, nothing captures the spirit of the holiday season like the latke.
Chicago is no stranger to latke, or potato pancakes for our non-Yiddish-speaking friends. In fact, there are plenty of local options for anyone wishing to get their latke on. If you visit the Christkindlmarket in Daley Plaza between now and Christmas, there is a latke seller around every corner. They serve them up hot and fast on paper plates. A couple of these paired with a mug of gluhwein (mulled German wine) is perfect for combatting the cold while you peruse handmade ornaments of glass, metal, and wood in the open air market. For year round options, Eleven City Diner in the South Loop, Lakeview’s The Bagel, and Manny’s Cafeteria & Delicatessen near University Village are just a few of the city's establishments known for their latkes. The internet is peppered with devotees arguing whose are better.
For all the hubbub, latkes are a simple enough dish. They are a mixture of grated potato, flour, egg, and either onion or garlic that is then poured into hot oil and fried like pancakes. Cooked to a golden brown, they are often served with a variety of side sauces or toppings. Applesauce, sugar, and fruit preserves will satisfy a sweet tooth. For those wanting a more savory experience, condiments such as sour cream or gravy are often used. Some folks are happy just to have a plain latke with a little salt. There is no single way to enjoy them.
As a holiday symbol, the latke has a rich and storied history. Though potatoes were relatively unknown until the discovery of the “new world”, ancient Jews made a similar dish out of cheese. The symbolism was more important than the product and actually focused on the oil, not what was cooked in it. With the introduction of the potato to Europe and beyond, however, the latke went from a religious observance to a dish popular across many nations and cultures. In Belarus, the latke - or draniki, as it is called there - is actually the national dish.
If you are feeling particularly homey this holiday season, why not try making your own? VegNews Magazine offers a recipe that is easy, delicious, and suitable even for vegans. Who needs chestnuts when you can have latkes frying over an open fire (or an electric burner for that matter)? High in starch and oil, potato pancakes are best enjoyed in moderation. As the old Yiddish proverb goes, “a little latke every once in awhile never hurt anyone.” OK, so we made that one up. Anyway, you get the picture. Now go get a latke.
Photo by Drew*in*Chicago.