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In Fine Spirits Debuts a Housemade Bitters à la Amer Picon

By Roger Kamholz in Food on Jun 24, 2011 6:20PM

We caught wind this week that over the past several months, Cody Modeer, head bartender at In Fine Spirits in Andersonville, has been busy behind the scenes concocting his own potable bitters. And not just any bitters, but a replica of the fabled Amer Picon, a French spirit akin to Italian amaro that has been unavailable in the United States for some time. (Respectively, "amer" and "amaro" are the French and Italian words for "bitter.") Modeer debuted the stuff on Wednesday. In typical bitters-fanatic fashion, 24 hours later we're bellied-up at Cody's bar, angling for a sip.

Here's your quick history of Amer Picon. The formula - a mélange of orange peels, herbs and spices - was invented in the mid 19th century by one Gaetan Picon, who drank it to steel himself against malaria while fighting for the French Army in Algeria. Pre-Prohibition, Amer Picon was a popular cocktail ingredient in the U.S., although it subsequently fell out of use here as drinking culture in America went pear-shaped. Importation ceased, and now the French, particularly those in the Basque region, do most of the Picon drinking. In the 1970s, the makers of Amer Picon also tinkered with the recipe, most notably by lowering the proof, effectively obscuring forever the product's original character. Modeer explained that in France today two types of Amer Picon are served, a "club" (stronger; used in cocktails) and a "beer" (weaker; added to beer in one-to-three-parts ratios).

Being a lost, forgotten and/or otherwise unobtainable product, Amer Picon has gained a cult status among America's craft-cocktail insurgency. Torani, the San Francisco-based maker of flavored syrups, produces what some say is a close approximation of original Amer Picon that the company calls Torani Amer. Bartenders have done their own experimentation recently, in hopes of creating small-batch versions that hew even closer to the genuine article. Like many of his cohorts, Modeer had been making his Brooklyn cocktail with Torani Amer (his version also includes Templeton Rye, Vya Dry Vermouth and Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur). But as of now - and as long as it lasts - he'll be using the housemade stuff in place of the Torani.

Tasting Modeer's amer neat alongside a pour of Torani, we can't say whose is a closer match to the Picon of old (we've never had the privilege of trying it). However, we can say that Modeer has created something truly special and far superior to its competition. Modeer's is a deeper, more opaque ruby red in the glass. On the nose, the Torani is all alcohol vapors - astringent and tinny. Not so with Modeer's, which issues a rounder fragrance of orange. Things get better when you taste it: more richness and backbone, a silkier texture, and a careful balance of bitter and sweet.

Modeer built his amer by blending two other housemade spirits until he landed on the desired proportions. One is an orange tincture, made by leaving orange peels to macerate in high-proof rum. The other is an herbal bitters he made by soaking a secret blend of herbs, roots and spices in high-proof vodka, then sweetened with a touch of cane sugar.

The effect it has on the Brooklyn cocktail is spellbinding. It's terribly luscious, unctuous even, thanks to the orange oils present, and possesses a pleasing depth of flavor. Its layers of sweet, herbal and bitter unfold gracefully.

Modeer credits his time under Benjamin Schiller, who ran the bar at IFS before decamping to Boka, as formative. No doubt, mentor and protégé share a strong ethic of creativity and innovation. Schiller has certainly left the place in very capable hands.

In Fine Spirits in located at 5420 North Clark Street.