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Chicagoist Beer of the Week: Local Option's 'Schmetterling Gose'

By Jason Baldacci in Food on Jun 7, 2013 9:20PM

2013_6_7_schmetterling.jpgA couple months ago, we wrote about how the guys over at Local Option created a modern representation of a classic, yet obscure German style of beer. We think it's safe to say they've done it again, so this week, we're taking a look at a very old beer style that almost no one brews anymore.

The 'Schmetterling Gose' is a dry, wheat beer that's fermented not only with yeast, but with wild bacteria as well, which makes the aroma of the beer incredibly funky. It's almost cheesy, actually, but we found this to be very pleasant. On the palate, 'Schmetterling Gose' is crisp and slightly tart, with rocky carbonation that keeps the body brisk and light. The beer has great minerality, but the most interesting highlight are the notes of spicy coriander and salt against acidic, sour tones that almost make us think of sourdough bread. At 4.5% alcohol content, 'Schmetterling Gose' is a very distinctly flavored beer that's nice and easy to drink for any occasion.

The German style of Gose is ancient, but was once all but extinct. There's really only one classic representation that's imported into the U.S., the Leipziger Gose, but it's not an easy beer to track down. Traditionally, a Gose would be brewed with malted wheat and barley (at least half of the grain bill would be malted wheat), and spiced with coriander and salt in addition to hops, before it was fermented with both yeast and lactic (wild) bacteria. That wild bacteria lends the funky tartness, while the coriander and salt add an extra layer of complexity. Sometimes, you might mix a flavored syrup, such as raspberry, with a Gose to smooth the beer out, but they're also delicious all on their own.

You'll only be able to find 'Schmetterling Gose' on draft, so check beermenus.com to see who has it on tap in your neighborhood.