What The Hell Is Wrong With This Hot Dog?

By Chuck Sudo in Food on Jul 30, 2013 7:15PM

Photo credit: Chuck Sudo/Chicagoist

Last week we offered our choices for the 13 best hot dogs in Chicago. It was a list that got you talking and was much-debated. Today, let’s offer an example of how not to make a hot dog.

Zebra’s Gourmet Hot Dogs is an attempt to appeal to the Hot Doug’s audience in the shadows of U.S. Cellular Field on 35th Street. But one of the things makes Doug Sohn stand out among all the other hot dog places in Chicago is a commitment to quality ingredients, which Zebra’s, sadly, doesn’t have.

Take this hot dog above, the “Chicago Classic,” which gets the two most vital parts of the Chicago-style dog wrong. You can see what’s wrong with the bun, a stale Turano boillo roll. Having eaten at Zebra's before, we can give that a pass as we've had hot dogs with fresh buns there. But the bun is hiding what may is a civic crime—a quarter-pound Nathan’s frankfurter.

You don’t make a Chicago-style hot dog with a New York wiener. You simply don’t.

This is a frustrating hot dog because Zebra’s gets the toppings on their Chicago Classic right. There’s a perfect balance of acidity and savory between the pickle, relish, tomato, onion and celery salt. Yellow mustard is generously applied. But if this had a Vienna Beef frank, or even a Red Hot Chicago hot dog, and a poppy seed bun, this would merit serious consideration. Even more mind-boggling: Zebra’s serves their hot dogs with a choice of fresh cut fries or house made corn fritters. Both are solid; the latter is one of the best bites in Bridgeport

Zebra’s Gourmet Hot Dogs is located at 744 W. 35th St.