Eins, Zwei, Winter Dining…

By Rachelle Bowden in Food on Nov 24, 2004 4:27PM

Every so often Chicagoist finds itself longing to chuck it all and head off to Europe, a la our post-college years – that time before we cared about how much debt we had, before we had gone and gotten one of those pesky “jobs”. If a Eurorail Pass is a thing of your past, however, fear not! A local option, nestled right in the heart of Lincoln Square, is sure to bring back memories of your trip to Oktoberfest - presuming you can actually remember anything about your trip to Oktoberfest.

Chicago Brauhaus, located at 4732 Lincoln Ave, provides a warm and inviting red glow by which to dine on schnitzel, liver, or other carnivorous delights. But before turning to the food - an important footnote: your meal will be accompanied by an oompah band in lederhosen, and several dancing seniors that will likely bring to mind the Lawrence Welk Show. Not to worry - the music, along with some Spaten Oktoberfest beer, makes all the food taste better.

And the food? Well, stellar German it is not – really good winter fare, it is. Chicagoist and Co had a reuben and meatloaf respectively -- the meatloafer clearly the winner of the “I wish I had ordered that” contest. It was moist, bready, and nicely flavored with gravy that did not overwhelm. The reuben had more meat than bread and a roof of melted cheese that forced even the most slovenly to pick up a fork and knife.

Brauhaus is not a spot to bring your vegetarian friends. The vegetable sides were overcooked, and the mashed potatoes are eerily evocative of school cafeterias everywhere. Should you have a veggie in your group, we would recommend the cabbage soup – a smoky and savory treat that would make a meal for anyone, especially when accompanied by dense and flavorful slices of rye.

Chicagoist was all set to give this place three forks, or four stars, or five schnitzel or whatever, and then just as we got the check the band bust out in a rousing rendition of “Edleweiss” – which resulted in general swaying and much raising of glasses. For this moment alone, we add another schnitzel. So come for the comfort food, stay for the lederhosen, and be prepared to see your grandma get it on.

Thanks, John & Susie!