X/O Chicago

By Erin in Food on Feb 12, 2005 5:01PM

With an upscale, small-plate menu designed by Executive Chef Bob Zrenner (North Pond, Tru) complimented with a wine list complied by sommelier Amy Lewis (MK, Zealous) and a lush decor designed by Jeremiah Johnson and Francois Frossard, X/O Chicago is a new restaurant neatly tucked into the strip of nightlife that makes up Halsted Avenue in the heart of Boystown.

Upon arrival, X/O Chicago feels purposely part-restaurant, part -lounge. While the dining rooms take up two, distinct areas, the natural flow of the room is much more reminiscent of the bars run by X/O's proprietors, Mark Liberson (Hydrate) and Mark Kwaitkowski (Joy Blue, Crush, Cherry Red). With plush couches and chairs littering the bar, a DJ spins in a remote corner of the room. X/O Chicago's interior is inviting with rich chocolates and red accents; in a smart touch that belies urban chic in a nod to its Midwestern roots, prairie grass is pressed into panes of glass.

Not surprisingly, the clientele is pretty and hip -- you may find yourself wishing you'd worn your Citizens instead of the ol' Gap stand-by's. Not that Chicagoist did this, but it's still worth pointing out that you're going to knock Celine-handbag first into the latest fashion trends at X/O so ready yourself before walking out the door. If being surrounded by such people makes you uncomfortable, the staff at X/O will put you at ease before you even take your first sip of Effen and Seven.

Chicagoist and friends had 8:30 p.m. reservations on a recent Friday night and our table was not ready, though Chicagoist is sort of used to that when dining at a new restaurant. The bar was packed, uncomfortably so, and while we were happy to drink before our meal, the sheer volume of people made jostling our purses and coats a nightmare. No sooner had we situated ourselves in a secure location did Liberson come over and offer to check our coats. Perhaps we haven't been out enough, but Chicagoist has never gone to a restaurant, at the height of dinner hour, and had an owner make his way through the crowd to offer such a personal touch.

Bonus points for service, and throughout our entire stay, it was top notch.

Once we were seated, Chicagoist immediately scoured the tome that is X/O's wine list, ordering our favorite Merlot and a flight of champagne, a nice option for those whose only exposure to champagne is at the stroke of midnight in a plastic cup on New Year's. The food is Asian/Mediterranean-inspired and embraces the small-plate trend.

With a recommended three-plates-per-person, Chicagoist particularly enjoyed the lamb, scallops, and rib eye, though the dish that wowed the table was the Trout Balls, and that's not solely because Chicagoist has the sense of humor of a 12-year-old boy.

We were most impressed with the hot plates rather than the cold, as only the spicy rock shrimp really grabbed our tastebuds. The fresh breads should not be skipped; they were probably the most creative we've had in quite some time. Go ahead, we won't tell anyone. The desserts were interesting; we had the crème fraiche-stuffed ravioli with a strawberry sauce and a decadent chocolate mouse resting on a Kit-Kat-like cookie.

X/O's namesake is taken from the premium designation for cognac and as such, a flight of cognac with dessert was in order. If Courvoisier out of your dad's snifter is your only experience with cognac, you probably won't be tempted to order one. However, Lewis has amassed a nice selection, not to mention chosen tall, elegant snifters from which to sip them.

Chicagoist loves cognac, and while her friends initially feigned disgust in trying some, by the end of the night they were all indulging. You should too.

While Chicagoist has heard opinions to the contrary, the price points seemed fair for an upscale, small-plate restaurant. There was a glass of Krug champagne for $23, and while it catches your eye, Chicagoist just can't reconcile that kind of money for one glass of champagne. For an evening of booze and food for six people, not including before and after libations, our bill came to about $300 sans tip. Keep in mind that with price, your mileage may vary.

Overall, the food didn't blow us away, but Chicagoist hopes that X/O is getting its footing and that we just need to take the menu out for another spin in the months ahead. But X/O Chicago is a fun dining experience, which is what most places of its ilk go for.

Worth your time, worth your money.

X/O Chicago, 3441 N. Halsted, (773) 348-XOXO. Call ahead for reservations.