Caliente: Not So Hot

By Hanna Aronovich in Food on Apr 18, 2006 2:17PM

Truth be told, when it comes to international fare, Chicagoist often chows down on a Patio burrito. So, when we headed over to Caliente (3910 N. Sheridan) for some Latin fare, we were excited to break out of the microwave-meal rut.

True to its name, Caliente was hot. As in stuffy. On the warm Friday night we dropped in, the restaurant’s air was thick and humid. The front door was open, but it proved to do little for circulation. And, although usually accepting credit cards, on the night Chicagoist dined, Caliente was cash only - which forced us to make an annoying trip to the ATM down the street.

The décor at Caliente is bright and festive. Yellow, orange, red and muraled walls covered in masks, metal mirrors and sunburst sculptures create a lively, but cozy atmosphere. Several dark wooden tables were scattered over the grey tiled floor. For secular Chicaogist, we couldn’t help but notice the religious candles (veladoras) on the tables and ornate crosses along the far back wall.

In its favor, the food at Caliente delivers. It’s authentic (tacos and enchiladas), but with a sophisticated flare. To start, Chicagoist ordered queso flameado, tequila-fired panela cheese and portabello mushroom served in a tortilla. The cheese was a rich and wonderful complement to the tender mushrooms. We played it safe with the tacos de pollo asado (grilled chicken breast tacos with lime), but were pleasantly surprised with the slightly spicy and citrus flavor, as well as the generous portions. And, although filling, our plate of goat cheese- and poblano-stuffed chicken breast, as recommended by our waitress, was licked clean. Our waitress was helpful and friendly, but between the spicy food and tropical climate, she had trouble keeping our water glasses full.

We were tempted by the Mexican hot chocolate and flourless chocolate cake, but even our dessert-loving appetites were satiated. Entrees range from about $15 to $20. With a BYOB policy and no corkage fee, Caliente makes for a cost-conscious, but lovely meal.

Although we’re lukewarm on certain aspects of Caliente, it had enough in its favor that we’d stop by again. Maybe then, the thermostat will be fixed.