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Wakamono: Trend Overload?

By Hanna Aronovich in Food on Apr 25, 2006 2:34PM

What happens when one super-trendy spot is replaced with another? Will the hip cosmos implode? Chicagoist isn’t really sure, but the space at 3317 N. Broadway seems to have a rotation of stylish concepts coming through. Previously Valhalla Wine Shop, the space now hosts Wakamono – and has gotten a facelift to boot. sushi2.jpg

Stark, white and minimalist, Valhalla sold affordably priced wine and was conveniently located across the street from BYOB Pingpong. Run by the same owners, Pingpong features the same bright, minimalist theme. But the Pingpong/former Valhalla owners took a different direction with Wakamono.

Feeling like a small rainforest with woodsy brown wallpaper, potted plants and wooden tables, the space holds about 10 tables. Not taking reservations and nonexistent waiting area, patrons have to try their luck to get a table. Around the dinner hour, the restaurant is often full, although on occasion, Chicagoist has stopped by and gotten a table immediately.

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The menu features typical offerings of sushi, nigiri and sashimi. It serves both classic maki rolls, as well as creative choices such as Hotel California Roll (king crab, anocado cucumber, fisheggs sesame), Maki Mexicano (yellow cilantro jalapeno, spicy sauce avocado lime), Peter Parker Spider Roll (softshell cream cheese spicy sauce freshwater eel unagi sauce masago) and Oedipus Roll (fresh salmon avocado spicy sauce cucumber topped with salmon roe wasabi mayo). Typical appetizers – think cucumber salad and edamame - are creatively or irritatingly (we can’t decide which) called Japas (a Japanese version of tapas).

Pingpong, an Asian-fusion concept, is as small as Wakamono, so it’s possible the two restaurants can peacefully co-exist without cannibalizing each other. And, the street certainly doesn’t need another kitschy boutique. But, Chicagoist still thinks Wakamono is a little too much trend and not enough substance to have much staying power. Bottom line: We’re hungry for more.