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Baby-on-Board Review: M. Henry

By Elizabeth Shapiro in Food on Apr 18, 2007 3:00PM

M.%20Henry.jpg After another night of little sleep, there are few things that can cheer us up at 8 a.m. on a Sunday morning. M. Henry’s being open for brunch is one of them.

In addition to their breakfast menu, M. Henry’s has a special brunch list that is available on Sundays. These selections are separated into “sweet” (pancakes, French toast) and “savory” (variations on an egg), and they highlight ingredients in season. We keep coming back for the Fannie’s Killer Fried Egg Sandwich ($7.95) — massive sourdough pieces surrounding two perfectly runny eggs that drip onto smoked bacon, tomatoes and Gorgonzola, the extra bite that makes this simple sandwich unique and worthy of its name. We tried to recreate it at home more than a few times and just couldn’t get it right. This time we also liked the Key Lime Brioche French Toast ($8.25), a dish whose highlights include real whipped cream, graham cracker crumbles, and a lime sauce that was sweet without being overpowering. Our son, normally a picky eater, couldn’t keep his hands off of it. The menu even had a vegan entree, often rare in this old stockyard city. M. Henry’s commitment to locally produced items even extends to its coffee, a specially roasted organic blend from Metropolis Coffee Company, a necessity and a deal for $2 per bottomless cup.

The space at this Andersonville joint is limited, so don’t lug your stroller, and do expect to get creative if you need to change your kiddo. They stock high chairs, but you probably won’t have much elbow room to soothe or to entertain your little one. Luckily, more than a few families find themselves here in the morning; we got more understanding nods than annoyed sneers when retrieving yet another hurled squeaky toy.

Be warned — M. Henry is not for the impatient parent or the crabby baby. The menu even admits that you will wait because your food is actually being prepared, not thrown in a deep fryer or a microwave. If you get there later in the morning, add a longer delay just for a table. Parents, throw some additional distracting toys into that diaper bag; the food at M. Henry is worth it.

M. Henry, at 5707 N. Clark, is open Tuesday-Friday from 7 a.m. until 2:30 p.m. and on Saturday and Sunday from 8 a.m. - 3 p.m.

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