One Great Sandwich: Bagel Art's "Fat Frank"

By Chuck Sudo in Food on Feb 13, 2008 5:30PM

The corner of Dempster and Chicago in Evanston still retains some vestiges of its hippie past, which isn't necessarily a bad thing. It actually reminds us of the less annoying parts of Lincoln and Wicker Parks. We've been fans of Bagel Art in Evanston for as long as we can remember; we usually have a sesame seed bagel with plain cream cheese every morning on the way to work. They also make a few good sandwiches for a quick bite during the work day, fuel for grinding out miles on the old Green Bay Road bike trail during summer, or just futzing around Evanston.

One of our favorites is the "Fat Frank," a sandwich whose name precedes current owner Nancy Depondt's tenure. This inspired combination of salami, tomatoes, red onions, and chive-whipped cream cheese, served on a bagel of your choice, is a physical manifestation of temptation in which you're doomed to succumb. The herbed goodness of the chives meshes amazingly well with the curing spices in the salami, while the sweetness imparted from the onions and tomatoes creates a contrast in flavors we wouldn't normally expect. That it's served on a homemade bagel is simply a bonus for us.

Eating this yesterday, with kettle chips and an Izze sparkling juice on the side, was perfect comfort food as we watched snow drop like dead weight to the street, the warmth slowly flushing out cheeks before we re-bundled for the walk back to work. Enjoying this sandwich was too fleeting.

Bagel Art is located at 1307-1/2 Chicago Ave. in Evanston. They're open 7a.m. - 5 p.m. Monday through Friday, 7 a.m. - 4 p.m. Saturday, and 8 a.m. - 3 p.m. Sunday. Call them at (847) 864-8700.