Review: La Bocca Della Verita

By Anthony Todd in Food on Apr 25, 2008 6:00PM

As you might have gathered from our Pasta obsession, we’re very picky about our Italian food. “Modern” Italian fails to impress, more often than not, and it’s been a while since we’ve found a new place worth mentioning. So, rather than check the restaurant listings, whenever we get a craving for Italian we always end up heading to Lincoln Square to La Bocca Della Verita.

La Bocca is named after a Roman landmark made famous by the movie Roman Holiday. The disc-shaped sculpture with a mouth in the middle is replicated at the entryway to the restaurant, which is decorated with some Roman Holiday-related memorabilia. The décor is attractive, the service is friendly and the food? Amazing. Simple, classic Italian dishes perfectly executed. For an appetizer, try the Calamari Affogati, squid cooked in marina sauce and white wine, or the fresh fennel salad. While we rarely order basic green salads in restaurants, the presentation of the house salad at La Bocca makes it worth ordering – filled with fresh vegetables and topped with a very strong red wine vinegar dressing.

For dinner, there is really only one choice: Pasta Carbonara. The house specialty, this dish is made with homemade guanciale (Italian bacon) which comes in big chunks that melt in your mouth. Easily a full meal in itself, this superb pasta will only set you back about $14. End the night with Covilio, a dish of home-made espresso gelato, an amaretto cookie soaked in liquor and lots of fresh whipped cream.

La Bocca Della Verita is located at 4618 North Lincoln Avenue. Reservations aren’t usually necessary, unless you’re going on a Friday or Saturday night. Street parking is available nearby and dress is casual.