Review: Shochu

By Ali Trachta in Food on May 1, 2008 6:00PM

We attempted to go to Jin Ju the other night for a birthday celebration but were dismayed to find it closed on Mondays. In the unseasonably freezing air, we had to think fast if we still wanted to satisfy our craving for Asian. The first place that popped into mind was something we’d passed on the drive up Clark Street - a new place called Shochu that had taken over the old Platiyo space in Wrigleyville. The description of “Asian Edged Small Plates” on the awning sparked our interest.

The restaurant, named after a Japanese liquor, opened just last week and is truly bringing something new to the tables of Chicago in the way of beverage. Handing us drink menus, the waitress highly recommended we try one of the shochu cocktails. Having no idea about the stuff, she promptly gave us a crash course.

Shochu is a trendy Japanese spirit that has been outselling sake domestically since 2003. Like vodka, it has flowery taste with a bite and mixes well with almost anything, but unlike vodka, this stuff is good for you! It contains an enzyme called Urikanase that has been shown to reduce the risk of heart attack and stroke, break down blood clots, and possibly promote longevity. It also has only has 20 or so calories per ounce (versus vodka’s 60) and spares you from hangovers. (Nectar of the gods!) The bartenders at Shochu pour it in a myriad of cocktail forms, including the Toyo-tama which is mixed with muddled raspberries and lime, and the Tzuhsi which is swizzled with spicy ginger. Of the many we tried, our pick was the Izumi for it’s tangy taste of fresh kiwi.

As for the food, the Shochu menu offers a deliciously unique blend of Asian flavors in small plate form. Owner Lynne Wallack (who also owns Deleece) graciously schooled us on the philosophy. The idea was to go beyond strictly Japanese cuisine to provide a pan-Asian experience that blends the flavors from the kitchen with the restaurant’s lounge-y atmosphere. We recommend ordering at least three selections from the Yakitori (grilled) or Kara-Age (fried) menu, in which case a sampling of seven dipping sauces comes alongside. From the Miso Lychee Aioli to the Wasabi Avocado Mayo, not a single one failed to please. We also loved the flavorful kick of the Red Curry Shrimp and the melt-in-your-mouth garlicky skirt steak lettuce wraps. We ordered two items wrapped in bacon - the dates and the tomatoes - both of which were a sweet and salty mouth explosion.

We ended the night with birthday cake, but we’ll be going back to try an Asian infused dessert, perhaps accompanied by a shochu flight. Kampai! (That’s “cheers” in Japanese.)

Shochu is located at 3313 N. Clark Street. It’s open late every night of the week, with lunch and brunch hours coming soon. Valet parking is available. Reservations, though accepted, aren’t currently necessary, but we have a feeling this place will soon have a line out the door.