Chefrain Keeps On Cooking

By Chuck Sudo in Food on May 27, 2008 2:32PM

Before last week it had been a while since we caught up with local underground chef Efrain Cuevas, so we RSVP'd to his latest dinner, which was to be held on the rooftop of a grocery store on the north side. The location turned out to be fortuitous as Cuevas was able to buy most of the spices, herbs and vegetables for the dinner at the store.

The threat of inclement weather forced Chefrain, his kitchen staff and volunteers to move the dinner into the grocery store's breakroom. This turned out to be better for the attendees; surrounded by old AC units, computer equipment, and supplies, the relocation added a sense of illicit behavior to the festivities that might have been lacking on that rooftop. The inclusion of the recently re-legalized foie gras on the menu also seemed anticlimactic, but tasty still.

The dinner overall was good, but the one issue we could raise about the dinner is that there's too much flavor going on with the courses. There doesn't seem to be a sense of balance. This was most evident with the dessert: a meringue cup and cap sandwiching a cherry custard, key lime gelee, chocolate biscotti seasoned with cayenne, and served with a cherry reduction. The flavors were all amazing, but there was no sense that there was thought put behind complementing them. We took pictures of the dinner that you can view here.

Those interested in staying informed of Cuevas' future dinners can sign up for his mailing list on his website, or follow this link.