Chicagoist's "Beer of the Week": Jolly Pumpkin's "Luciernaga"

By Chuck Sudo in Food on Mar 27, 2009 9:00PM

The last time a critical gaze was cast upon Jolly Pumpkin Artisan Ales was way back in 2007, when Bam Biere was designated a "Reader's Choice" selection. One of the great American-made saisons, Bam Biere was ahead of the curve, helping herald the current sea change in American craft brewing from mouth-puckering hop bombs to Belgian-inspired balance and sour ales. Another favorite Jolly Pumpkin selection is "Luciernaga." This summer seasonal release is the Dexter, Michigan-based brewery's take on a Grand Cru Pale Ale. Brewed with Grains of Paradise and Coriander, no extra hopping is necessary to give "the firefly" a spicy kick on the finish.

Luciernaga pours a malty brown, similar to Orval or Goose Island's Matilda. As with all Grand Crus, this also has a lighter, effervescent carbonation and and a silky head that takes its sweet time to dissipiate. There is a slightly sour flavor on the palate, but nowhere near what a farmhouse ale imparts. At 6.5% ABV, Luciernaga also won't fly to your head.

You can find Luciernaga at Marion Street Cheese Market in Oak Park (100 S. Marion St., 708-725-7200). If you do visit, have former Chicagoist contributor Andy Jenkins pair this with some aged cheddar; he's the beer buyer over there. Chicagoist's "Beer of the Week" is Jolly Pumpkin's Luciernaga.