Chicago Classics: Chicago Pizza and Oven Grinder Co.
By Anthony Todd in Food on Apr 16, 2009 3:30PM
When we walked into the Chicago Pizza and Oven Grinder Company for the first time, it was like stepping into another era where everything is wood-paneled, calorie counting is something to scoff at and credit cards don’t exist. Exactly what era isn’t entirely clear, but the atmosphere is one of classic warmth. Opened in 1972, the CPOGC has been packed with hungry patrons since day one, and the menu has barely changed in 27 years. Which is a good thing, because it’s just about perfect the way it is.
The first time we visited, we were slightly confused by the menu. What the heck is an “Oven Grinder?” And where is the pizza? Oven Grinders are huge, loaf-sized sandwiches stuffed with meats, cheeses, and peppers, basted with garlic oil and baked. Hungry yet? The CPOGC’s “pizza” is actually Pizza Pot Pie, a strange but surprisingly addicting concoction. When one arrives at the table, it looks like a baked hat made of homemade bread. Your server flips it onto a plate, inverting the dish into something more pizza-like, and out spills a savory tomato-meat sauce with whole mushrooms (if you like). The whole thing is sealed together with cheese and eaten with a knife and fork. Even haters of deep-dish pizza agree: these things are amazing. A vegetarian version is available.
Don’t forget the rest of the menu. The CPOGC’s signature appetizer, the Mediterranean Bread, is an amazing herbed flatbread about 3 sizes too large for the plate it’s served on. For $6.75, it’s a bargain and everyone should order one. They also serve huge, beach ball sized salads with homemade dressings on the side - and we’ve only worked up the courage to order the smaller size. Save room for dessert - Tortoni, a rum-flavored Italian ice cream that somehow is still appealing even after a giant meal of tomatoes and cheese. We can’t explain it, but it works.
A few logistical notes. The CPOGC doesn’t take credit cards, so bring a good supply of cash. If you go on a weekend, be prepared to wait - the turnover is fairly quick, but the restaurant is very small. Try coming either right at noon or later in the afternoon, between lunch and dinner. They have a full bar, and while their wine selection may not be posh, they serve the largest pour of wine we’ve ever seen - in the real world, it would be about 2 and a half glasses, so be prepared. Valet parking is available, though you might want to take a long walk after your meal.
The Chicago Pizza and Oven Grinder Company is located at 2121 North Clark Street.