Frank Bruni, Meet L2O

By Chuck Sudo in Food on May 6, 2009 3:40PM

New York Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni reviews L2O in today's edition of the Paper of Record. The true meat of the review lies not in Bruni's take on the food — he says Laurent Gras has "deftly filtered many worthy influences" — but in forecasting its long-term health. L2O has not been packing them in of late, and Bruni notes that gras' partner Rich melman of Lettuce Entertain You holds "plenty of moderately priced, unglamorous restaurants to support such divas as Tru and Everest." And L2O.