Beard Papa's Makes Cream Puffs For Cream Puffs

By Chuck Sudo in Food on Jan 12, 2010 8:00PM

The Japanese cream puff franchise Beard Papa's has been getting a lot of press and love from food obsessives since their store in the Block 37 concourse opened (108 N. State St.; 312-960-9000). We brought home a dozen over the weekend for some hands-on examination. Is Beard papa's worth the hype?

Sadly, no. While we commend Beard Papa's for their commitment to "fresh 'n natural" cream puffs, the execution does not live up to the vision. Pre-made cream puffs kept warm beneath warming lamps are filled by hand at the time of order. It's the filling that gives Beard Papa's wares their moistness. By the time orders are fulfilled, the outer pastry itself is dried to the point of being nearly indistinguishable from a shelf stable pastry.

It's a shame, really. We enjoyed Beard Papa's fillings very much on their own, a feat made possible by the filling oozing out of the puff with ease. The strawberries and cream filling was particularly tasty spread on some shortcake we had in the kitchen.