Chicagoist's "Beer of the Week:" Telegraph Brewing's Golden Wheat Ale

By Chuck Sudo in Food on Jun 18, 2010 8:30PM

Even though wheat ales such as 312 and Gumballhead are available year-round, summer is prime wheat ale season. As always, I'm looking to expand my beer knowledge and test my palate. Rachel Driver of LUSH Wine and Spirits has known this for years and, during an event at their new West Town location (1412 W. Chicago Ave., 312-666-6900) showed me some arrivals from a new California brewery just reaching the market. (No, not that one).

Telegraph Brewing Company is combining traditional European brewing techniques with an emphasis on local ingredients. From a taste perspective, their Golden Wheat Ale veers closer to Gumballhead territory than 312. Upon decanting, this forms a fast thick head due in part to bottle conditioning, with a golden color. The nose on this, also due in part to the bottle conditioning, is very yeasty. I was picking up some serious bread and cardamom.

Spices and citrus are rich in this beer's flavor profile, while the wheat flavor is subtle and elegant. There's a nice tartness to this ale that neither Gumballhead nor 312 have. Don't know if this or any of telegraph's other brews have hit bars yet, but all three LUSh stores should have it in stock.