Review - Julius Meinl After Dark

By Anthony Todd in Food on Oct 12, 2010 5:20PM

It's a bit surreal to go into a favorite brunch spot after dark. Many of the smells and feelings one associates with the place are gone; there are no joggers in sweats coming in to get coffee, no lines of yuppies crowding the door, and nothing has run out in the kitchen. Julius Meinl is our favorite coffee shop and makes our favorite sandwich, but there is an entire page of the menu that we have always passed over, dismissing it as "too heavy" for breakfast.

Julius Meinl, for those who haven't been for breakfast or dinner, is an Austrian-style coffeehouse. The company that owns it is based in Vienna, and the only U.S. locations are in Chicago. These two locations, one on Southport and one on Lincoln, offer almost identical menus, atmosphere and service. Julius Meinl is known for its interesting drink concoctions, it's old-fashioned service (on silver trays with tea biscuits) and its amazing pastries. During the day, we always order a pot of tea and a Croque Madame, a decadent sandwich made with Black Forest ham, Emmentaler cheese, egg, dijon mustard and truffle aioli. They also offer a bacon cinnamon roll that always runs out and a great selection of sausages.

When we visited at night, the atmosphere was totally different. Gone were the crowds, replaced by a few small groups talking and studying in the warm glow. Julius Meinl offers live music on Friday and Saturday nights, usually classical or jazz and often provided by musicians associated with the CSO. On this particular night, a harpist plucked away in the corner. When we sat down, we immediately turned to the spatzles, an Austrian specialty so often mistreated that, like gnocchi, we never order it in restaurants. The main event, the Käsespätzle, was made with Emmentaler, onions, garlic, bacon and chives, combining practically every savory ingredient we love with homemade spatzle that was neither heavy nor sticky. The special that night was a delicious butternut squash spatzle, and we'll be heading back for the chorizo spatzle, an yummy-sounding dish made with oven tried tomatoes and mushrooms.

Julius Meinl doesn't serve alcohol, so you'll have to stick with cider, tea or a coffee drink. But this has the happy effect of minimizing the already-small bill. Two orders of spatzle (with side salads) and two drinks ran about $25. This would be a perfect spot for a casual get-to-know-you date, or for a few old friends to talk the night away. Remember, it's not just for brunch anymore.

Julius Meinl is located at 3601 N. Southport and 4363 N. Lincoln.