Random Thoughts On Tending Bar

By Roger Kamholz in Food on Dec 16, 2010 8:20PM

On Tuesday night, I had the pleasure of participating in the finals of an amateur bartending contest hosted by the folks at Prairie Fire and the charity Share Our Strength. (How I got myself behind the bar at Prairie Fire is described here and here.) After two terribly enjoyable hours, the other finalist - a knowledgeable and talented mixer named Adam Murphy - out-earned me in tips (all of which were donated to Share Our Strength to combat childhood hunger) and thus was named the winner. He'll be demonstrating his winning original cocktail, the delicious White Winter Whiskey Sour, at the Green City Market this Wednesday. I urge everyone to go see him in action.

For both of us, this was our first time making drinks at a commercial bar. I admit I was a little nervous at first, but I ended up having a blast. And I didn't fumble any glassware!

I already had a strong admiration for the craft and creativity it takes to conceive and mix great drinks. Now I have an even greater respect for the job of running a bar. The quarters are very tight and you fight a losing battle to keep the bar stocked. And I wasn't doing us any favors; The Red Beard, the original cocktail I was making, turned out to be a high-maintenance diva of a drink. It called for piping-hot tea, tall glass mugs (not a common vessel for most bars) and frozen lemons. You know, all the stuff bars keep on-hand none of the time. I had the poor bar backs shuttling mugs to the dishwasher and back for me my entire shift.

Part of me felt guilty, but the rest felt like Sam Malone. A few friends came to support me, and I found myself wittier, and perhaps more dashing, than usual. (Then again, that's not saying much.) You choose your words when you're talking over a bar.

I also discovered that bartending is very theatrical. Of course, the bartender is a kind of performer, but that's not what I mean. For the first time, I realized that the patrons aren't the audience, they're the show. Behind the bar, the bartender has the best seat in the house to watch characters evolve - or devolve for that matter - as the evening's narrative arc takes shape. People get happy, get more intimate, or simply get toasted.

That said, as a bartender you can't help but be an object of focus. You're in this dual position of authority and service, and how you balance those forces affects your livelihood.

Just thought I'd share some of my observations. Bartenders of Chicago, I salute your efforts; it's a great job, but not an easy one. And to everyone else, I swear this is the last time I will hold forth about my brief flirtation with public displays of bartending. After this, it's back to the regular business of being your faithful potables correspondent in the field.