Revamped 694 Wine and Spirits will Excite Cocktail Nerds and Pork Lovers Alike
By Anthony Todd in Food on Apr 26, 2011 6:00PM
694 Wine and Spirits impressed us. It's a simple statement, but as cocktail nerds, any bar that has this much of a commitment to serving craft spirits gets high marks in our book. They also serve exclusive Salumi Cured Meats from Seattle and Benton's Country Bacon bacon, both available in Chicago only at 694. Of course they have a good wine list, but we prefer whiskey with our pork. Plus, any menu that quotes Steve Martin from the Muppet Movie ("Sparkling Muscatel: One of the finest wines of Idaho") has got to be good. Formerly Juice Wine Co., 694 Wine and Spirits has rebranded, redecorated and revamped their food and drink selection.
The owner, Chris Dunstatter, explained his philosophy of drinking to us. "Since people mostly come in for wine, I can pretty much do what I want with the spirits," Dunstatter bragged. He isn't kidding. The bar stocks every craft spirit you've ever heard of, and some you haven't - and he wants you to try them. You won't find Jose Cuervo, Absolut or Makers, unless it's left over from a party - they just won't stock them. Mixed drinks aren't the name of the game at 694 either; straight spirits, or very simple cocktails are the way to go. Dunstatter warns, "I'm not making a Moscow Mule." Dunstatter isn't looking to be a snob, but he is looking to educate - just tell him what you usually drink, ask him for some help, and he'll point you towards a drink (or five) that'll make you very happy. Sip through the bar with the help of 694's knowledgeable staff.
What are you going to eat with your booze? 694 is the only restaurant in Chicago (and the only restuarant in the entire midwest) to stock Armandino Batali's artisan salumis from Seattle. Made by the father of famed chef Mario Batali, Armandino's salumi is a must-try for any lover of charcuterie. 694 also is the only restaurant in Chicago to stock Benton's Smoked Country Bacon, named the best bacon in the world by Esquire Magazine. It is definitely distinctive - you can taste the smokehouse - and on Tuesday nights, 694 serves BLTs made with Benton's alongside half-priced bottles of Pinot Noir. They also serve a flight of artisan butters - the only place we've seen try such a thing.
We might sound like geeks, but our favorite feature of 694 was the creative signage. Take a look at the photos in the gallery, and pay close attention to the print. You may start laughing at your desk. 694 also has a party space, a patio and a retail wine selection. If you haven't visited since the re-branding, go now. It'll be worth the trip.
694 Wine and Spirits is located at 694 N. Milwaukee Avenue.