Is Fennel Taking Over The World?

By Melissa Wiley in Food on Jul 5, 2012 4:00PM

There are worse things, we realize, than vegetables assuming world domination. After all, they do us nothing but favors, defending against heart attack, stroke, and various cancers and proving all-round invigorating. Plus, some food group has to play the straight man, if only to set off the sweet stuff. If fennel is not in fact taking over the world, however, it’s definitely making some heady inroads. Fortunately, we adore its crisp texture and bright, anise-esque aroma. But we make it a policy to note signs of incipient despotism, whatever their antioxidant levels, and right now fennel is surreptitiously stealing its way onto almost every menu that crosses our field of vision.

From fennel ginger ice cream floats at Eggy’s to an orange and fennel salad at Urban Union to Tavernita’s fresh fennel-based condiment served in concert with carne del día, fennel is in. Some old standards like the fennel and mushroom salad at West Town Tavern were pioneers, scouts for the impending invasion, but now the advance guards are upon us.

Of course the fêted herbaceous ingredient has been on the scene for quite a while now. Ancient Greek myths associated fennel with Dionysus, the Greek god of food and wine, lending it a debaucherous Golden Age luster that modern chefs seemingly can’t resist. Science also reassures us that this essentially bulbous plant is well worth indulging in, being particularly rich in the phytonutrient anethole, shown to reduce inflammation and help prevent certain forms of cancer. In addition, fennel abounds in fiber, folate, potassium, and vitamin C, enough nutritious brownie points to make gogi berries downright jealous. In short, you can hardly go wrong when fennel is on your plate, so it’s hard not to root for its impending superhero-like takeover of kitchens everywhere. Plus, its momentum appears all but unstoppable, so if you can’t beat it, eat it.

If you come across an attractive fennel bulb at your farmer's market or in the produce section, here are some ideas. Roast it with parmesan, braise it in chicken broth, make a salad with beets, create a gratin with feta or turn it into chutney with bacon.