The J. Parker Makes A Mean Meatloaf

By Melissa Wiley in Food on Aug 17, 2012 7:00PM

Melissa Wiley/Chicagoist

If you know anything about anything, you know that the very last reason you would visit the J. Parker at Hotel Lincoln is for its meatloaf. Visiting this open-air lotusland solely for a mundane slice of meatloaf while ignoring the more obvious attractions would be like visiting Epcot for the hot dogs and not taking a ride inside that big silver golf ball. You’re unquestionably here to gape at a breathtaking view while sipping innovative cocktails and being devastatingly attractive. There are clearly bigger fish to fry than what was likely Grandma Moses’ favorite dish. But you should order the meatloaf anyway. It’s that tasty.

Sadly, even the word “meatloaf,” with a sorely galumphing “oaf” at its tail, seems to sap this glittery rooftop bar of its frisson. Despite the fact that you didn’t wax and oil your legs for something your Aunt Bertha used to serve every Wednesday doesn’t mean this homespun main course isn’t every bit as worthy of your attention as that sparkling bottle of Dom Pérignon. In fact, in our experience Paul Virant’s latest addition to a svelte but satisfying J. Parker menu is its very best feature.

Small plates form the whole of the J. Parker spread and are thoughtfully divided into two complementary columns, protein bases and their accent flavorings. For $3, the River Valley mushrooms and pickled garlic will set off the otherwise unadorned meatloaf ($9) to better than mama-made perfection and supply you with stamina for the long and sultry night ahead. Sipping martinis and looking fetching in profile against one of the world’s most stunning skylines is all well in fine, but trust us: it’s even better when you snag yourself some of the city’s yummiest slices of meatloaf first.

The J. Parker is located in the Hotel Lincoln at 1816 N. Lincoln Ave.