Mr. Spanky's Comes Up Short Humping To Please

By Chuck Sudo in Food on Feb 1, 2013 9:22PM

Photo credit: Chicagoist/Chuck Sudo

The first thing one notices when entering Mr. Spanky’s Farm Fresh Artisan Foods, the new sandwich shop in Bridgeport, is the persistent sell job coming out of the mouth of owner John Schultz about how he only uses the freshest local ingredients, his shelf stable bacon recipe, those delightful root beer baked beans that we have to order every time I visit; and how Schultz and wife Xin want to make their little corner of 31st Street and Shields Avenue a destination spot for both neighbors and folks from outside the neighborhood, like Pleasant House Bakery and Nana Organic.

Schultz’s resume includes stints as an executive sous chef at Ringling Brothers Barnum & Bailey Circus and he also caters salads and other prepared foods to the University of Chicago. But even P.T. Barnum slowed the hard sell once customers were under the big top and let the acts prove their mettle. In that regard, Mr. Spanky’s—the name is a reference to Schultz’s childhood resemblance to George “Spanky” McFarland—still needs some work. The baked beans, velvety gems of legumes braised in Filbert’s root beer and Schultz’s bacon, are worth every penny. Mr. Spanky’s macaroni and cheese is also worth an order.

Chicagoist/Chuck Sudo

But the sandwiches, which Schultz calls “Mr. Spanky’s stuffed buns,” suffer from a terrible bun. That’s a shame because his BLT, made with fresh greens, tomato jam and that amazing bacon, needs a bun that’s the equal of those ingredients. Schultz wouldn’t tell us the name of the Chinatown bakery where he has them made. That’s okay, since we wouldn’t want to go there anyway. As any sandwich lover knows, bad bread can ruin a sandwich and Schultz would be better served buying Turano rolls in bulk. Schultz has a rotating selection of 20 sandwich combinations to choose from.

Schultz’s bacon and tender applewood smoked pulled pork is easily the highlight of a visit to Mr. Spanky’s and can be purchased in bulk. Mr. Spanky’s also carries sausages made from his recipes by neighborhood legend Kaminsky Meats and eventually aims to sell heat-and-serve dinners to go.

If he can find a suitable bread, the sky’s the limit.

Mr. Spanky’s Artisan Fresh Foods is located at 335 W. 31st Street. Hours of operation are 10:30 a.m. - 10 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday.