Erwin Drechsler Reemerges In Evanston
By Staff in Food on Feb 15, 2013 5:40PM
The interior of Company.
Erwin Drechsler is poised to re-enter the kitchen after shuttering his longstanding namesake restaurant Erwin last summer, and he’s doing so with one of his old pastry pals in a new restaurant pop-up space in Evanston.
When Drechsler closed 18-year-old Erwin, his loyal customers and the restaurant were left wondering what his next move would be, as Drechsler’s kitchens reared some of Chicago’s top toques, including Paul Kahan, Mindy Segal and Stephanie Samuels. The latter is Angel Food Bakery’s pastry chef and owner, who will be re-uniting with Drechsler February 20 through 22 at Company, an 18-seat dining nook in Evanston outfitted to host special pop-ups.
The space has already hosted events by Feast & Imbibe, an underground dining operation jazzed up with molecular gastronomy by Moto vets D’ Andre Carter and Heather Bublick. Company partners Eric Singer, owner of Evanston’s Lucky Platter, and Craig Golden, co-owner of Longman & Eagle and Union Pizzeria, are intent on wrapping in more chefs, and using the space as a showcase for a diverse range of culinary talent. When Singer showed Drechsler the space, he knew it would be the perfect opportunity to collaborate with Samuels, making it the first time the two have shared a project.
Since closing Erwin, Drechsler has been looking at prospects for how to re-introduce himself into the culinary market. The Company pop-ups is an out-of-the-box occasion that allows him to not only re-connect with Samuels, but with his loyal Erwin patrons and the local restaurant community at large. “It’s really a celebration. It goes way beyond just a dinner,” says Drechsler.
Drechsler met Samuels when she responded to an ad for a pastry position at his Metropolis Cafe in 1983. She was in charge of all baking and desserts for the next six years, and she had a stint at Metropolis 1800 in 1991. Drechsler says his relationship with Samuels is an enduring one that goes beyond business. Since they are both friends with Singer, the opportunity to work together again at this new space was too good to pass up.
The menu for Drechsler and Samuels’ three-night pop-ups is atypical for both of them. Simple and focused, the seasonal menu concentrates on just a few ingredients per plate, though replete with creative twists. The five-course prix fixe includes brussels sprouts two ways, which Drechsler describes as a soup and salad combo, an arctic char course, a rack of lamb chop, quinoa risotto, and for dessert, a financier tea cake with roasted pear compote, almond-ginger crumble, and Gorgonzola ice cream. Dinner starts at 6:30 p.m. each night February 20, 21, and 22, and costs $100 per person. The dinners are BYOB.
Following his Company debut, Drechsler has even grander culinary plans. He is looking to open a new, seasonally-driven restaurant on the North Shore.
Singer says the Longman & Eagle team plans on previewing their new Hyde Park restaurant, The Promontory, at Company as it gets closer to opening. Additionally, he thinks it is the perfect spot for sous chefs and line cooks to step out and get recognized, doing their own thing. For each pop-up at Company, it is up to the participating chefs to provide their staff, audience, and ingredients. Company does not currently have a website up and running, but eventually people will be able to see pop-up dates and events online.
To make your reservation, contact erwin.drechsler@gmail.com or call 847-624-7485. Payment will be in the form of cash or check only.
Company is located at 1307 Chicago Avenue in Evanston.
By Matt Kirouac