One Great Dish: Links Taproom's 'My Big Fat Greek Sausage'

By Chuck Sudo in Food on Feb 28, 2014 10:30PM

Chuck Sudo/Chicagoist

There is a lot I like about the new Links Taproom in Wicker Park, from the vinyl spun behind the bar to the high-tech draft beer menus that giving customers an idea of how much beer remains in their keg of choice. (Those screens are also linked to show Foursquare check-ins as well as social media status updates whenever the bar’s Twitter handle is mentioned.) Soon Links’ technological embrace will include iPad menus, an interactive web menu in the works and beer reviews from the king of user review beer websites, Beer Advocate. (Please no to that last one.)

Yet for all the openness to technology— flesh, blood and sweat equity still drives the day-to-day operations. Having customers sitting at tables go to the bar to order drinks and food means management will lose sales on a busy night while drinkers sip their drinks and eat their food. This is a shame because Links has some nice bottle and draft selections and some killer housemade sausages. One of my early favorites is their take on a gyro, “My Big Fat Greek Sausage.” This spicy lamb sausage is served with tzatziki sauce, roasted red peppers, fried shallots, red wine-brined olives and feta cheese. It’s a perfect blend of flavors totally intended to evoke the flavor of spindle meat without weighing you down after. Eat this sausage with some of Links’ thin-cut, crispy fries. Or, if you’re sharing plates, order their “buried alive” fries, an exercise in stunt eating containing sausage, giardinera, bacon, green onion, cheddar cheese and a choice of two dips that will make you feel regret after if you eat it all at once.

Links Taproom is located at 1559 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773-360-7692.