Chicagoist's Beer Of The Week: Penrose Proto Gratus

By Jason Baldacci in Food on Apr 4, 2014 7:30PM

If Spring ever decides to stick around for more than a day or two at a time, we feel like we've found the perfect beer to celebrate.

Proto Gratus is a Belgian-Inspired Single (think Blonde Ale) from newly opened Penrose Brewing Co of Geneva, IL. The nose on this beer comes with a healthy dose of earthy hops and tangy yeast. On the palate, Proto Gratus is almost as dry as can be, and that hop profile turns from earthy to floral and herbal, reminding us a bit of oolong tea. The malt presence is crisp and bready, but the yeast involved here is wonderfully spicy, fruity and definitely stands up a little taller than all of the other ingredients. Overall the first offering from Penrose is nicely balanced with impressive minerality. At 4% alcohol content, Proto Gratus is not only unique, but incredibly sessionable and a no brainer selection when you see it on a draft tower in the coming months.

The Belgian Single is not a style we see very often in the United States. As a matter of fact, it's not even a style you'll see much in Belgium unless you're specifically seeking it out. It all goes back to the Abbey Ale Tradition, with Trappist Monks brewing Dubbels, Tripels and Quadrupels, which are styles that are much more popular and more commonly exported. The Single is usually the beer that the monks will brew for their own consumption, which would be very appropriate to enjoy with lunch. They're not as rich as the others, lighter in body and alcohol, and brewed to be more quenching than complex. Proto Gratus isn't the most traditional take on the style but we're not complaining. As far as we're concerned, Penrose is clearly playing for keeps by making this their first beer released to the public. We're just happy it's going to be available year-round.

Proto Gratus is only available on draft and only in a handful of bars and restaurants. Check beermenus.com to see who's pouring it, or hop the Metra out to Geneva and visit the brewery's taproom. Good Beer Hunting put up a great profile of the brewery yesterday and the photos are quite lovely. You can also check out our previous coverage of the brewery here.