Revisiting: Charcuterie And Cheese At Table, Donkey And Stick

By Staff in Food on Feb 10, 2015 8:00PM

Table, Donkey And Stick burger with mini latkes (photo by Erika Kubick)

Table, Donkey and Stick is one of those restaurants that has only gotten better since it opened in 2013. It’s a shame that most of media buzzes around newborn restaurants, missing a maturation period that can take what is merely good at first into something outstanding. With this in mind, we decided to visit Table, Donkey and Stick to spend a night with what has become a standby for its diverse and delicious menu.

The menu is made up of Alpine style dishes: rich, wintery plates with complex and earthy flavors. You can pretty much eat any kind of meal here, which is why you can find wine aficionados pairing their favorite vintages with a board of carefully chosen cheeses and charcuterie alongside industry professionals chowing down on a burger and beer after their shift. The Monday night menu is designed precisely for the latter, with a variety of offbeat $5 specials.

Their Alpine burger is a work of art. The rich patty is covered with a slice of aged brick cheese and onion marmalade on a pretzel bun. Right now, the burger is accompanied by horseradish aioli, apple mostarda and terrific little latkes, which, despite their name, are like a cross between a tater tot with sour cream and onion Lay’s chips.

Duck meatball (photo by Erika Kubick)

The rest of the entrees are simple and satisfying, which is just what you want on a chilly winter night. We tried the duck meatballs, a hearty spread of egg noodles, grilled cabbage, carrots, duck yolk, comté cheese and meatballs made of smoked duck breast. It’s a rich dish and we suggest splitting it among friends since it’s both comforting and delicious enough to spark a conversation. The desserts are equally delightful and best alongside their own blend of Sparrow Coffee.

Wanderteller (photo by Erika Kubick)

The biggest highlight of the menu is the Wanderteller program, meaning “hiker’s plate.” It’s a selection of in-house charcuterie, each paired with its own accoutrements, and excellent cheeses. The duck liver mousse is the most exquisite— a rich whip featuring blueberry jam and candied cocoa nibs. The schweinekopf is gorgeous, as is the coppa, smoked trout and country paté, which is served in thin slices. You can’t really go wrong with their Wanderteller and their charcuterie keeps getting better.

There are usually four cheeses on the menu, always carefully selected and handled, served with honey, candied nuts and bee pollen. Right now the blue cheese offering is Bayley Hazen from Vermont, which recently won the award for best unpasteurized cheese at the World Cheese Awards in London. The cheese tastes of sweet cream with an earthy, fungal funk and its most remarkable feature is its texture, which has the meltability of fudge.

Carrot cake with roast carrot ice cream for dessert (photo by Erika Kubick)

The bar at Table, Donkey and Stick has blossomed since opening last spring. The four handle tap features a rotating selection of mostly local beers and ciders. Their wine list is petite, approachable and contains an array of unique highlights in addition to their Terroir Tuesday, a weekly special offering special wines at cost. They also offer brandy flights. The cocktails are outstanding, always tasting perfected with a unique twist. Our favorite is the Lgn Blvd, a take on a Manhattan featuring rye, bonal, sweet vermouth and orange bitters.

- by Erika Kubick and Melissa McEwen

Revisiting highlights restaurants that have been open for longer than a year.