Your Definitive Guide To the Best Chestnuts In Chicago
By Amber Gibson
“Chestnuts roasting on an open fire” may be a classic American lyric, but the first time I had chestnuts was as a teen studying abroad in Germany. We were at a local Christkindlmarkt and I was searching for something warm and toasty to line my stomach after downing too much glühwein a little too quickly. It was love at first bite—the subtly sweet, starchy flavors and toasty aroma enveloping me. They were fun to peel and kept my hands warm, and nothing at all like the crunchy roasted nuts I was used to eating back home.
On a recent trip to New York City, I was pleased to have easy access to roasted chestnuts as the holiday lights were going up on Fifth Avenue. It seemed like food vendors on every busy street corner were selling chestnuts, usually in addition to sharwarma, too-dry falafel and hot dogs. In Chicago, chestnuts are sadly not so ubiquitous. However, I’m determined to enjoy chestnuts as frequently as possible this holiday season and luckily, several chefs and mixologists are making that dream a reality.
If you’re craving chestnuts this winter, here are a dozen places to indulge, including spots boasting free chestnuts or secret chestnut dishes that aren't on menus.
It’s chestnut happy hour at Four Seasons Chicago, with complimentary freshly roasted chestnuts served at the restaurant and bar on Thursdays to Sundays from 5 pm to 8 pm through Dec. 28. Sit by the fireplace and order the “Half Past,” Allium’s new warm tea cocktail, for a perfect pairing - gingerbread rooibos tea is served in a copper tea pot, spiked with vodka, and flavored with ginger, lemon and clove.
Every Chicagoan knows Eataly makes incredible bread in their second-floor bakery, and through the end of the year they have a seasonal special—dark chestnut and spelt flour loaves studded with walnuts and balanced with savory rosemary and sweet honey. The chestnuts lends an earthy, almost musky flavor that’s complex enough to be enjoyed unadorned. ($5.80)
“Chestnuts are becoming fashionable again,” says Chef Tony Mantuano, as he remembers that, 20 years ago, chestnuts were hard to come by. Spiaggia’s new winter menu starts with a miniature teacup of chestnut truffle soup cut with acidic cider. Waiters instructs guests to drink this “like a little macchiato” and the sweet, earthy soup thickened with chestnut flour is a heartwarming start to what may be one of the best tasting menus in town. ($95 for seven courses, $165 for 14 courses)
For a boozy chestnut fix, head to Beef & Barley and order The Nat King Cole. The Bulleit rye cocktail includes housemade chestnut and caramel syrups and is garnished with a whole chestnut, rosemary sprig and cranberry. “We roast the chestnuts in butter, which gives the cocktail a full bodied flavor,” says owner Michael Hartman. “I really wanted anyone drinking this to think back to spending the holidays at home, with the smell of chestnuts roasting in the air.” ($10)
At Travelle, Chef Tim Graham sweetens up spiced venison loin in an entrée inspired by his Uncle Doug’s wild venison stewed with figs and chestnuts that he enjoyed as a kid. “I wanted to use a venison loin and keep it served medium rare, so instead we stew the figs and chestnuts separately with the addition of cipollini onions,” Graham explains. He finishes the dish with a light cocoa nib vinaigrette. ($38)
Chestnuts aren’t on the regular menu at Osteria Langhe, but ask for Chef Cameron Grant’s special risotto and you’re in for a treat. Grant was inspired by a risotto he tried in Piemonte to make a bacon, chili flake and Brussels risotto topped with melted lardo and garnished with caramel chestnuts. “The nutty, almost dry chestnuts are moistened and sweetened by buttery caramel,” he explains. “This dish just warms the soul. It's a complex harmony of smoke, spice, sweet, salt, and earth.” ($27)
"Chestnuts are a rich part of the French American culinary tradition which MK tries to honor each winter,” says Chef Erick Williams. This year he’s braising duck legs in Zinfandel with maple-glazed chestnuts and roasted root vegetables adding sweet, earthy flavors to this rich winter dish. ($26)
Each winter, Chef Tony Priolo imports roasted chestnut flour from Italy for tagliolini di castagna at Piccolo Sogno. This year, wild mushrooms, garlic, veal meatballs and shaved Parmesan top off the toothsome pasta. ($21)
The roasted butternut squash and chestnut soup at Fig & Olive is vegan - made with Arbequina olive oil—and inspired by a soup Chef Wilfrid Hocquet’s mom used to make in the South of France - the Ardèche region is famous for its chestnuts. Hocquet roasts the squash to bring out its nutty flavor, and says the natural sweetness in both chestnuts and butternut squash play well together. “The contrast of texture is perfect,” he adds. “Smooth soup and crunchy chestnut [garnish].” ($13)
New pastry chef Marianna Reynolds is shaking things up at La Sirena Clandestina with a new dessert menu. Don’t worry, the alfajores aren’t going anywhere, but the gluten-free warm chocolate cake made with fruity TCHO dark chocolate, espresso and chestnut flour is a new favorite. Crunchy chestnut amaretti cookie crumbles top it off along with candied quince and mascarapone crema for a thoughtful rendition of a classic. ($8)
For a sweet chestnut fix on the go, head to Vosges Haut Chocolat in the city or at O’Hare airport. Vosges has three new holiday chocolate bar flavors, including a chestnut honey almond caramel bar. Dark chocolate squares are filled with a chestnut almond marzipan made with Kiawe Flower nectar honey from Hawaii. Admittedly, the chocolate and honey dominate, but there’s a lingering earthy note from the Italian chestnut paste. ($7.50)
At Nico Osteria, Leigh Omilinsky is an Italian twist on the classic French mont blanc dessert and calls it a Monte Bianco. A puff pastry shell is filled with layers of chestnut honey cremeux, caramel apples and apple mousse, all ensconced with whiskey-spiked chestnut paste. The delicate dessert is served à la mode with a scoop of spiced gelato with whiskey-poached prunes and sweet cream. “The whole dish screams winter and is all about warm fuzzy feelings,” Omilinsky says. “There are warm flavors like whiskey, caramel and chestnuts. There is a little bit of French influence, but also I was thinking of the chestnuts roasting on the streets of Torino last time I was there.” ($12)
