Perfect Tacos Are Hidden Inside An Hermosa Carniceria
By Chicagoist_Guest in Food on Feb 4, 2016 3:33PM
tacos al pastor, by Jen Olvera/Chicagoist
Welcome to Inside Story, our series about eating places hiding inside of other businesses. That great coffee counter inside the mall? That awesome sushi stand inside the supermarket? The donut window out the back of your favorite neighborhood restaurant? That's what this is all about.
For this first installment, writer Jen Olvera visits Taqueria Ricardo, hiding inside Carniceria Ricardo on Diversey.
If you’ve journeyed down this particular stretch of Diversey, it’s doubtful you noticed it. Even the sign indicating that sizzling, spit-fired meat is within is so faded it’s unrecognizable — just a cursive ‘R’ here and a capital ‘D’ there. Say you stepped into the dingy-looking supermercado anyway — it’s the cases upon cases of vibrant Mexican pastries that prove focal. But keep walking — you have to — into adjacent sit-down Taqueria Ricardo, where hardwood-fired wonders reach otherworldly dimensions.
You'd never guess what's inside. by Jen Olvera/Chicagoist
Plan to visit this little-known gem on empty stomach — including when it opens at 8 a.m. Flare-ups (of which there are many) mean flavor, and you can watch it transpire from the other side of the glassed-in “kitchen” that’s tucked into the corner of the dining room.
The first thing to order is the beyond-legit al pastor taco. The savory, rust-hued meat is crisped-up and tucked into fresh corn tortillas. Then, the taco is showered with cilantro and onions by a heavy, knowing hand. A lime wedge, grilled knob onion and wood-kissed jalapeño come on the side. Even if their involvement is optional, their consumption comes highly recommended. Just slice up the veggies and slip them inside; then, finish it all off with a spurt of lime and drizzle of excellent tomatillo-based salsa. The salsas — especially the verde — are bright, full of depth and tongue-tingling.
Roast chicken. by Jen Olvera/Chicagoist
Still, if the al pastor itself is a reason to frequent the Hermosa haunt, the wood-grilled chicken seals the deal. A half or whole bird arrives sputtering atop a mound of battered, seasoned fries, along with the aforementioned, grilled knob onions and jalapeños; lardy, creamy refried beans; fluffy, tomato and chile-cloaked Mexican rice; limes and oranges; and a tortilla warmer’s worth of fresh tortillas. When it arrives, set about about making your own tacos, using a slather of beans, torn-from-the-bone meat, slices of the grilled veggies and, naturally, a zap of salsa.
As for the carne asada taco, it — and the smoky, generously spiced, pulled pollo version — are real-deal, too. Come to think of it, this crew does a lot of things well. The giant, zingy-tomato-based Mexican shrimp cocktail is chock-full of medium-sized crustaceans and heavy on cilantro; it arrives with the perfect foil — a handful of saltines. Even the milanesa torta is among the exemplary versions we’ve had, owed to the fact that there’s no skimping on sour cream and silky avocado.
Plus, you’ll encounter a range of seafood parrillada and even wood-grilled rabbit. Also on hand are hangover-abating soups (try the hearty caldo de res). From meat-packed burritos to sopes, tostadas and shrimp in garlic sauce, all the bases are covered and it’s hard to go wrong.
About the setting. It's illuminated by low, institutional lighting, a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it street-side door and a lone skylight, and it’s ramshackle (some would say dingy). Yet, somehow, it’s endearing at the same time — save the thumping Latin videos with scantily clad women on screen. Never mind those gals. Just order yourself a margarita, horchata or agua de Jamaica while you wait because rewards are about to arrive.
Taqueria Ricardo is inside Carniceria Ricardo at 4429 W. Diversey Ave.