Find Amazing Empanadas And Alfajores Hidden In An Argentinian Wine Shop
By Anthony Todd in Food on Apr 6, 2016 2:50PM
Photo by Jen Olvera
By Jennifer Olvera
Welcome to Inside Story, our series about eating places hiding inside of other businesses. That great coffee counter inside the mall? That awesome sushi stand inside the supermarket? The donut window out the back of your favorite neighborhood restaurant? That's what this is all about. Last time, we snagged lumpia from a hidden Filipino market. Now, it's time for some empanadas and uncommonly good cookies.
It’s rare to encounter a shopkeeper so charismatic and welcoming as Mario Gimenez. But nearly half of the experience at Buenos Aires Liquors & Deli involves chatting it up — about the food, the weather, your homeland, you name it — with whomever is tending the family-run shop.
As such, it’s easy to forget to stroll through the aisles of the small shop, located off the beaten path in Cragin on the city's Northwest Side. Do make time, though, since there’s an extensive, relatively affordable selection of Argentinian wines; shelves stocked with olives, condiments and yerba mate; and a freezer case filled with sausages, pastry wrappers and flaky, savory snacks you’ll want to prepare at home.
The real reason to come, though, are the house-made eats. You’ll find them nestled onto covered stands behind the small, mostly empty deli case or just pulled from the oven, still steaming on sheet pans behind the counter.
Empanada selections varieties vary by day, but they’re likely to include truly special olive and hardboiled egg-studded beef and piquant, pulled chicken that’s moist and burnished in hue. The ones you’ll see for purchase are baked, and they’re done so to flaky perfection. Bacon and goat cheese empanadas were also on offer, but we found these too sweet for our liking.
Photo by Jen Olvera.
Everything is better dolloped with bracing, herbaceous and vinegar-rich chimichurri. This iconic condiment is drinkable-good, so do yourself a solid and ask for extra. You’ll use it not just on your empanadas but also some grilled steak at home.
As amazing as the empanadas were — and they really were — the alfajores (dulce de leche sandwich cookies) threatened to steal the show. Featuring a tender crumb, sweet-sticky filling and sides rolled in finely shredded coconut for extra texture and taste, they’re destination-worthy. And this coming from a person who rarely cares about dessert! In fact, they completely overshadowed the dulce de leche pastries we ordered as well.
From the sound of things, the shop does a mean catering business, too, often shipping their wares nationwide or catering fêtes locally. That means adding in menu options like lechón al horno (roast pig) and sandwiches de miga, little tea sandwiches that are popular in Argentina.
There’s no seating here, so you’ll be grabbing your grub to go. Try to resist the urge to eat them on the ride home — that is, unless you’re lucky enough to score yours piping-hot. A quick blast in the oven at home brings these handheld wonders to life.
Our only regret? Not ordering more.
Buenos Aires Liquors & Deli is at 3100 N. Cicero Ave.