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The Stew is reporting that River North restaurant Graze is closing after a mere six months of business. We are sad to say goodbye to Graze because we generally thought Chef Bob Zrenner was a likable person with an interesting vision of fine dining for what was essentially three blocks off the Mag Mile. 
When we interviewed him in January he told us, "Small plates bring that high level of cuisine to people on a much more affordable level. Our portions might be small, but two or three of our plates gives you three times the variety of a $30 entrée. This way, you aren’t committed to one thing, you still have a decent meal, but you can try a little more...."
So what happened? "The owners believed that the public was rejecting what we were trying to do," he told The Stew."I don't think the city of Chicago wants [small plates]. They're great in concept, but it's a hard sell. Everybody still wants to see a big steak." Zing!
Vettel wonders if small plates are good or bad; we think small plates are good in theory, but bad when they cost $10+ dollars a plate. $30 or $40 a person to feel almost-full doesn't really seem to cut it in our book (yes, we are looking at you Green Zebra). Chicagoist hopes small plates don't go the way of the Dodo, but can somehow, learn to live in harmony with steak, pizza, and desgustations in the Windy City.
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"I don't think the city of Chicago wants [small plates."
Or perhaps there's something to be said for getting in on the tail end of a trend that was playing itself out? Graze is more of a market correction than anything else.
I don't like small plates when they make me feel like I'm getting scammed—and unfortunately that's the way most of those places make you feel. "Small plates" has become code for "lbigger profits" to some restaurants.
i'm with you, mike. whenever i go out for 'small plates,' it's with a bunch of people, and a ton of stuff ends up getting ordered ... but there's only one or two things that i REALLY like, and one or two things i kind of like and a couple of things i don't like at all. because they're all getting passed, it's not like i'm getting to make a meal of the one or two dishes i would have eaten exclusively if i had been out and ordering that as an entree at another restaurant.
i'm always decently satiated, but not completely. then, the bill comes, and i owe $40 or $50!!! what!? yeah, for that kind of night out, i want a really nice meal/entree with appetizer and dessert that is all mine!
Mef! Small plates works well at a place like Green Zebra (when Shawn is there) because the food is so amazing and special. (Taken to the extreme, think el Bulli or Alinea) When you're just doing small plates of meat+veg+starch, it isn't as interesting, so I think that the 'tail end of the trend' comment applies.
I don't know what's up with your stomach if you order three dishes per person at Green Zebra (done as three courses per the menu sections, of course!) plus coffee+dessert and you aren't borderline stuffed!?! (and you aren't missing out on one of Sue's amazing white wine selections (Go Loire! mmmmm! mineral-y!) are you?) Well, fine - stay away! It will just mean easier reservations for me!
I LOVE SMALL PLATES! But uh... why spend $10 a plate when I can go to dim sum and pay $2 or $3?
Small plates at a place like Cafe Iberico are great, small plates at an overpriced joint that for $10 will serve you a single scallop in the center of a beautifully designed dish are not.
I love the arrogance there -- it's not that they made a misstep with their product, but rather us customers just don't get it. You know, because the nationwide press lately has been saying what a backwards town we are dining wise.
It's very simple -- if you serve a plate that contains as much (or less) food as an appetizer in a "normal" restaurant, price it higher, then fuel disappointment by calling it "small", it's going to be a tough sell.
."I don't think the city of Chicago wants [small plates]. They're great in concept, but it's a hard sell. Everybody still wants to see a big steak."
Or it couldn't possibly be the fact that you and your restaurant fucking sucked?
Yes, the food at Graze was ok at best and small plates vs. big plates is a discussion to be had. Another problem however was the decor. In the words of a tough critic it looked like a "mall food court". Based on it's proximity to Michigan Ave walk up appearance has to count for something and this place left a lot to be desired.
""I don't think the city of Chicago wants [small plates]. They're great in concept, but it's a hard sell."
The owner of Del Toro made a similar comment when it closed down after months of struggling. I think all the comments above prove why it isn't working for restaurants that want to maximize profits by minimizing meals.
I liked Graze a lot and will be sad to see it go, but in addition to the problems already outlined, I think they chose a stupid name -- the first several times I walked past it, I read it as "Grazie" and assumed it was a new Italian place -- didn't market it well, and didn't give it long enough to really let the word of mouth take off. (I would have been happy to tell more people I loved the food, the portions really weren't all that small, and the bang for your buck was comparable to other restaurants in the neighborhood. I just didn't have time.)
But then, given this guy's obvious disdain for his market -- "I offered the plebes affordable haute cuisine, and they rejected it in favor of big lumps of meat!" -- I'm not all that sad to see him fail, frankly.