Ask Chicagoist: Paris in the Springtime in Chicago?

Dear Chicagoist,

I hope you can fill me in on what the story is behind the Metra entrance on Michigan that looks like the entrances to the Parisian Métro. Is it a reproduction or the real deal? Is there more than one?

Thanks!
Nina

2007_04_askmetra.jpgHi Nina,

Well it's not really a secret-portal wormhole entrance to Paris via Michigan Avenue, so we bet it's a reproduction.

Sorry. We know what you mean. Of course there's a good reason it looks like the Parisian Métro entrance. It is!

The Metra entrance at Michigan and Van Buren, to seasoned European travelers or architecture buffs, looks astoundingly like the Métro stations in Paris. The Parisian entrances were designed by Hector Guimard around the turn of the last century. Guimard is more or less the primary icon of the French Art Nouveau movement, and his Métro entrances are characterized by their "graceful organic forms" with their "green iron rails, light posts with red bulbs hovering over the steps and shields with a 'M' for Metro engraved near the base."

Metra's South Shore entryway, at 18 feet tall, nine feet wide and with four foot high railings, is made of cast iron and limestone -- all materials came directly from France. It is a cast of the original and is an official part of Chicago's permanent art collection. So it's not just a shoddy wanna-be European replica -- it is in fact a gift to Chicago from Paris. Note that by saying it's a cast, we mean it never actually served as a Métro station in Paris. So you could call it a replica (although an official replica), since it was created from the original mold that Guimard designed. Whenever repairs need to be made to existing stations or Paris needs a last-minute retirement or baby shower gift, replacement parts or complete station entries are cast.

In this case, the full-cast came to Chicago from the Parisian Transit Authority in December 2001 by way of the Union League Club of Chicago, the organization that originally came up with the idea (specifically architectural artifact collector Seymour Persky) to get Paris to give us a station, and helped pay for some of the costs of transporting the piece of art to Chicago from France.

The idea was to get something to show the community between Paris -- one of our sister cities -- and Chicago in the new millennium. Granted, the structure was not completely in place until 2002, and dedication ceremonies didn't happen until Bastille Day 2005 (July 14).

Getting a station from Paris was, according to Persky, in keeping with the "Art Nouveau atmosphere at the corner" of Michigan and Van Buren, what with the Fine Arts Building and Auditorium Theatre in the same area. He also pointed out that "Michigan Avenue has such French airs that when Mark Twain once took a walk there, he proclaimed it more Parisian than Paris."

Another part of the original goal of the project was to give Paris an artistic gift from Chicago. This part of the bargain has yet to be fulfilled, as Paris has refused the two gifts offered so far -- a cow from the infamous Cows on Parade exhibit, and art deco concrete panels from the Ogden Street Bridge.

What do you think we should offer France that they'd actually want?

Image via puroticorico.

Parlez-vous français? Need some advice? Email ask(at)chicagoist(dot)com.

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Comments (26) [rss]

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Maybe some shady foie gras hot dogs?

I know an artist who was selected by the city as a finalist to design a gift to give Paris. France supposedly France declined our gifts because they were, um, tacky and not up to par, so now we are offering to regift our own version of the ubiquitous France metra entrance...but again, France has communicated their constraints on how it should look. Apparently they just think Chicago has crap taste.

Good work, Chicagoist! Now maybe you can tell us why there is a water tower on Michigan Ave and also what is the name of that body of water next to the city??

we should give them that easter egg from wyoming.

There is one of these at Bellas Artes in Mexico City. Seems like Paris just has a whole warehouse full of them to hand out.

Maybe we could give them a big order of Chicago-style Freedom Fries, then, instead of trying to re-gift their subway entrance.

There was a whole program on the construction of this on WTTW.

There are actually a lot of these in various cities throughout the US....at the moma in NYC, in one of dc's sculpture gardens, etc. I don't think many other cities have decided to actually make them functional, but I also don't think the presence of one here makes chicago that special.

whatever happened to parisist? they would have been good ones to ask...

How many sister cities does Chicago have, and what is the significance of sister cities? When I walk through O'Hare, I noticed about 3-4 different sister cities, and I don't recall Paris, France as one of them.

abhay: you noticed three or four different sister cities? not about thirty or forty?

and isn't this paris stuff just all about daley's hard-on to try and make chicago uber-european?

i think it's funny that paris dissed our cows. i thought some of the cows were cool, and we obviously got a lot of attention from them, but some of them were really tacky. not to mention, when i think cow, i think wisconsin. why have a symbol that represents an urban legend of major destruction for the city?

wow, i'm surprised it took three replies to the post for the inevitable 'chicagoist you suck and are stupid' rant. or maybe that person was going to be first but is a slow typer.

Man, the Wyoming egg! I wish I had thought of that first!!! If we don't go with the egg or the foi-dogs, what about the U of C???? I bet the EU could use some economists right about now!

abhay, per your request:

www.chicagoist.com/archives/2006/04/27/ask_chicagoist_sister_city_selection.php

What's the Ogden Street Bridge that you are referring too? I know where Ogden is but I never knew there was a noteworthy bridge along it.

Bah- I don't blame them about the cows. The cows were basically a tacky promotional idea cooked up by an ad agency. IMO the whole stunt looked like a desperate ploy by a city with an inferiority complex to get attention.

If Parisians are too chic to accept gifts they deem unworthy, then they shouldn't be offered any more. Screw 'em.

Actually, Jeff, Cow on Parade was the idea of local businessman Peter Hanig, who saw a similar exhibition in Zurich and convinced the city of Chicago to do the same.

wow, the same peter hanig that developers are forcing out of the farwell building? he's to blame?

I'm not sure if they would want it, but we could offer to build the Chicago Spire in Paris instead of Chicago.

In lieu of The Spire we could offer them the Olympics, if Chicago wins the bid.

Okay, it was an unoriginal promotional idea that was ripped off from another city by a local businessman.

I stand corrected.

How about giving them that ugly piece of junk that serves as an outdoor urinal in front of the State of Illinois Building. Sorry, but I'll never call it by that other name. In fact, why not give them the entire ugly blue and salmon building?

Steven, I am glad that this public urinal exists where it does. In fact, we need more public restrooms in Chicago, similar to San Francisco. The urinal that you refer to is by Jean Dubuffet, who was a Frenchman, by the way.

Why all the hate for Cows On Parade? It may have been inspired by an exhibition in Zurich, but didn't garner international attention until Chicago did it, and attracted quite a few tourists as well. That being said, I don't think the offer to Paris of one of our cows was a particularly great gift either. What made the cows special was the fact that there were many spread around the city like easter eggs. One by itself is not very exciting, and yes, some of them were tacky...

lol, it's hoot to hear Dubuffet and Helmut Jahn talked about like this.

A somewhat popular nickname for the Dubuffet is "Snoopy In A Blender," although the reference point for the name is fast fading into cultural obscurity.

http://www.baudelet.net/paris/cow-parade.htm

paris probably didn't want any cows because they were too busy having their very own cow parade.

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